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Paragraphs of 
a Pedestrian 



■:./■ by 



N. Tjernagel 



.est) 



Published by 

MOHN PRINTING COMPANY 

NORTHFIELD, MINNESOTA 






Copyright, 1913, by N. Tjernagel 



©CI,A3485 02 



Paragraphs of a Pedestrian 

by N. Tjemagel 



.eSE) 



I took this trip in inemory of my grandfather. During 
his many visits among his granidcfhildren, he h§,d filled 
our childish minids wit'h wonderful tales from his beloved' 
Valdiers, the place of his birth, which he had left in the ex- 
uberance of youthful spirits seventy-five years ago. What 
I remember most vividly was the story Ihe told of onoe 
being overtaken by a vagabond in the miountain wilds, 
who, upon showing his true colors, grandfather in turn:, 
sfliowed a big bottle, whichi he let descend with a whack 
upon the head of th^e outlaw and then rani for dear life 
the rest of tllie day, never looking behind him at all. 
How the miscreant ever took it, and of how quickly he 
recovered) from the shock, grandpa, for one, never 
learned. He was itlhen on his way tO' the west coast. 

Grandfather became a fisherman, a stonemason, and 
finally emerged as an emigrant on board a sailship for 
America, where he, together with his wife and daughter, 
m.y mother, spent eight unipleasant weeks. His grand- 
dhild didn't spend as many days, covering the same dis- 
tance, coming comfortably in fheir wake aboard the 
Mauretania, a few months ago. 

Grandfather tried Illinois for a few years^ but he 
thougiht he could do better in Iowa, so he hitched up his 



4 
oxen and struck out for the west, locating in a structure 
of logs, among: the Indians and rattlesnakes on the river 
lands of the placid, smooth flowing Des Moines. During 
winter he sought exercise in the forests, wood chopping 
furnishing a vent to hig bounding energies and In sum- 
mer, his plow, scythe, and ihoe, powerfully and skilfully 
wrought, w^rung submission from the virgin soil. They 
lived on corntsread, potatoes, beans, pork, and molasses, 
and he at least, was hugely satisfied. It was here that I 
first met film, my parents having settled farther eastt, near 
the Skunk river. Wiien he caught sight of me, he threw 
out his arms threateningly, promising to break every bone 
in my body, but ttie reassuring twinkle lurking in the 
corner of tiis eye, belied his words. He promised dire 
things to us youngsters during our visits, but nothing 
ever ha.ppened, and he always had to let go of some tears, 
which he never wiped away, when we left for home. We 
missed him, oh so sorely, when his story telling ceased 
and Death called his spirit Hence, into the blissful Be- 
yond, whither iie had so long aspired to come. His body 
now rests on a beautiful knoll near the Des Moines river, 
far, far away, from his beloved Follinglo, the home of his 
birth. 

Can any one wonder at me, coming to Valders this sum- 
mer in the wake of the great tourist stream which an- 
nually seeks this wonderfully beautiful section, that I 
v/ould' search all the hills about, and turn either upside 
down if necessary, to be able to locate this particular 
spot, this Follingia. 

My first question after arriving at Fagerness, the end 
station of a funny little railway, over wlhich two trains g» 
tripping over the mountains from Ohristiania, daily, wsl* 
directed at the proprietress of Fagerlund hotel as to tk© 
whereabouts of the place I was seeking. "Follinglo? 



5 

Why, that is only half an hour's walk up the roadi froiM. 
here," When she suggested that it was rather too late 
that day to make the visit, I failed to appreciate the ad- 
vice. How preposterous to Imagine that one couldi dielay 
such a quest for as miuch as one second! I flung my 
satchels at the attendant and s:tarted out eagerly on foot, 
brimful of expectations. I scanned every nook and cliff 
and bouldier, as I pressed on, hailing them as friends, 
knowing full well that grandfather had often lingered 
among them, a joyous youth, in the long, long ago. When 
I came to the venerable looking Strand church, I decided 
that he had been baptized there. Here I collided with a 
picturesque figure in the person of the native born school- 
master, Mr, John Strand, who wore old fashioned knee- 
breeches, trim vest, and who told me to look where he 
pointed, which I did and' — beheld Folling'lo nestling ever 
so snugly on the other side of the fjord. 

Precipitous hills, picturesquely clad with -spruce and 
fir, overhung the narrow stretch of soil, grudgingly spared 
between sea and mountain, for the tiny Follinglo fields. 
Though reminiscent of straitened lives and circumsitances, 
the scene gave inspiration, possessing, as it did, many at- 
tributes of peculiar lovliness and charm. 

Mr. Ole Jorstad, retired farmer and savings bank di- 
rector, a one-time playmate of a prominent Norse-Ameri- 
ican musician and mutual friendi, rowed me over in his 
"ship," as he called his tiny chip of a boat He talked 
about olden days and sang several folk songs as he rowed, 
happy that he could be of service, to a friend of a friend of 
his youth. We rowed the mile but s!lowly, noting the dif- 
ferent landmarks as they drew in sigTit; I busy to ques- 
tion, (he busy to explain. Once on land we took a sfliort 
path to gain time, but got lost among the pines, -irhich, 
gave me occasion to tease Ole for not being acquaiiiite# a.t 



6 
home. He merely puffed a little stronger at his pipe, 
stroked his gray beard, and winked at me to come on. We 
tumbled into the bed of a dry mountain brooklet, and 
ramibling' on, bounced out upon Follinglo, quite unex- 
pectedly. Ole rubbed his eyes and looked around ques- 
tioningly, as if he wasn't sure whether he had actually 
allowed himself to get lost, back there, or not. 

My grandfather was bom on cotter's place on Fol- 
lingl'o "gaard." When I drew my feet over the threshold 
of the aged hut standing trusty guard over its sacred 
memories, I experienced one of those rare moments which 
so seldom come to any of us; becoming possessedi of feel- 
ings, for which I have neither words, or other meana, to 
give expression. I carved my name above the bedroom 
door. The present occupant and his family looked on 
with awe. 

Though there is no gaudineas whatever abiout the lit- 
tle farm, the inviting surroundlings make up for it in 
varied attractiveness. Nor does the sorry looking house 
and barnyard ad'di any prestige. No wonder grandfather 
felt rather hemmed in, for, being a strong active youth, 
the work did mot suit; also, havimg attained to a goodly 
height, he could scarcely stand upright in the little house; 
andi every time he passed in, and out he was obliged to 
bend low;, for the doors were only fivei feet and hardly 
that. There was ancient moss between the logs, placed 
there, nobody knows how many decades ago, to keep the 
wind out. The huge old open fireplace served to intro- 
duce air and dissipate the heat. NO' wonder it was so 
difficult for consumption germs to thrive midst such un- 
congenial surroundings, in those airy, jolly log hu'ts of 
Old. Of late years this particular germ, here as in other 
countries, has become quite a pet, and is generally pro- 
vided with all the impure adr he wants, rewarding his 




Midnisht Sun. 



7 
caretakers with lingering tortures and almost certain 
death. 

The house had birch bark on its roof for shingles, with 
turf laid thereon, to hold them down. The grass grow* 
green as yiou please up there; and also little trees that 
have nowhere else to go. The rascally goats sometimes 
hop up here, peer into the chimney or perch thereon, 
scratching and tearing about generally, to the best of 
their ability. To hinder auch. pranks, old boards or 
planks are often placed over the sod as a protection. 

From the door of the but I had a glorious view of the 
mighty snowcapped Jotunheim naountains. I felt their 
beckoning call, as had grandfather, when they drew him 
on, opening up endless vistas of beauty and grandeur be- 
fore his entranced vision. I determined- to follow in his 
footsteps, pick up the old bottle for a weapon, and sally 
on. The friends of his youth were no more, the old hut 
being the only survivor, and I had no cause to linger. 

With all my eyes and interests fixed and centered on 
the Jotunheim, it was not without something of an effort, 
that I forced myself to deviate from the road and journey 
up a frightfully difficult mountain path, to make a visit 
to an ancient lady, who lived hidden away up there, all 
by herself, not far from the clouds, and who, I had been 
told, might have in her keep, a possible store of recollec- 
tions about grandfather. It was an arduous climb, and a 
lonely place, which, all of a suddiem, reminded me that I 
might possibly be overtaken, right here, by a bad man or 
two. Two seconds later I was taken with laug'hter, for, 
whenever- was a traimp known to invite troub'Ie to the ex- 
tent of performing a climb like this, when in the full pos- 
session of his faculties and freedom. 

Wandering on, I finally made out something which I 
decided was either a hut, another queer looking pile of 



Btones, or a grotesquely shaped boulder. Whatever it was, 
it struck me as being a freak arrangement anyhow, mar- 
ring the face of nature. When I finally reached It, I 
knocked on the likliest place on the dilapidated wall, (hav- 
ing the semblance of a door, and awaited with some 
trepidation, results, I heartily wished I 'had never been 
allowed to read about hags and ogres. My knock had' a 
disturbing effect, for soon something stirred. Now it 
came! It clamped heavily along on the floor and I thus 
made out, that the occupant, of whatever form or feature, 
walked on wooden shoes. This reassured me. Ten times 
rather that, than a padded, stealthy tread. The latch 
clicked, — heart stood still — 'the door creaked ajar, and 
before me, stood peering out, a grayhaired old woman of 
a very masculine front, but with a reassuring beam in her 
bright, alert eyes. After the usual greetings, she invited 
me in, saying: "Be welcome, I am here alone, but the 
Lord bides with me." She grew immediately curious, and 
asked if I might perhaps be the "Len'smand" (sheriff), or 
some such official. I quickly acquainted her with the fact 
that I did not have that honor, being merely a plain 
American citizen, searching high and low for relatives, 
adding, also, that I was the son of Martha Karine, daugh- 
ter of Nils Anderson Pollinglo. She gazed long and tense- 
ly at me, finally exclaiming: "You do not mean' to say 
that our Nils Anderson went to America, had a daughter 
and a grandson, and that you are he, and have come all 
the way from America to tell me so!" I could not deny it. 
"Yes," she continued, "I knew Nils very well. There is no 
relationship, but we were brought up together as chil- 
dren, my imother being his step mother." 

The dead hadi come back to life. I had burled my 
grandfather's friends all too soon. She was eighty years 
old and chipper as might be, there being about her, as 



9 
yet, not the faintest suggestion of being dead, wliatever. 
She was concerned about my comfort after the tiresome, 
difficult climib, and immediately began bustling about to 
prepare me a cup of warm coffee, and other good things 
— what might it not be. Every now and then she would 
pause to contemplate the strange, new figure before her 
and say, as if to herself: "How wonderful! To think a 
grandchild' of Nils, with whom I used to play, oh, so long 
ago! should come to visit me. What does it all mean? 
The good Lord knows." She incited me to the table with 
a heartiness of manner, seemingly, as if she would will- 
ingly have given her all, in addlition, to what she had to 
offer. She had fetched some coarse black bread and 
cheese from a horrible looking hole under the house, and 
I am sure I do not know how clean it was, but I would 
have eaten it if It had been old leather. Who would 
want to hurt her kind old heart. She gave a finishing 
touch to my cup, inside and out, wiping it with her old, 
rusty fingers, so as to be sure that It would be nice and 
clean. She stooped with much labor to wash the dishes 
in an old iron pot, containing cold water, placed con- 
veniently on the floor. The wiping cloth was not dirty, 
but of an indescribable pattern. The coffee was black 
as night, she having no milk to offer — ^the cow was kept 
during summer at a distant "sseter" (Mt. summer pasture) 
— and strong as such a brew could possibly be concocted. 
Although knowing it to be as poison, I tasted of it as if 
sipping nectar. She insisted on pouring me another cup 
and still another, but I managed to fetch up on the de- 
fensive, being used to it, having been fairly deluged with 
coffee by well meaning Norwegians the whole summer. 
Perhaps this continual coffee sipping, accounts for the 
fact that quite many of them, especially among the coun- 
try people, are well nigh toothless. 



19 

After our repast, she asked me to lean back In mjr 
■chair, make myself comfortable, and take all the enjoy- 
ment possible. Meantime, she lit her pipe, and betweea 
long drawn valiant puffs, told her story. Can I forget her, 
as she sat there, with her venerable, kindly face beaming: 
upon me, the smoke from her pipe forming a halo about 
her head, — and thanks be to the draft from the open fire- 
place behindi tier, hindering it from getting so thick I 
couldn't see her. She thought it remarkable that I un- 
derstood her speech, and could hardly put together an* 
believe the fact, that I was really foreign born, and yet 
able to speak her language. 

She told me she had worked uphill all her life, yet 
she knew of people who had fared worse. She had never 
been else than a poor, hard working tenant, and for the 
last twenty years the Invalidism of her husband had adde* 
weight to her burden, but, thanks be to God, who had 
given her a strong back, she had been able to hustle, dig 
and scrape, with euflficlent energy to support them' both. 
The greatest sorrow she had known, was, when they car- 
ried him away to the church yard, leaving her utterly 
lone, with only herself to provide for. Her only daugk- 
ter had gone to America, with the youth of her choice, 
and after some years they sent home the news that sh© 
had contracted' an incurable disease which resulted, fin- 
ally, in the loss of hep reason. This was a terrible blow, 
and she wouldn't complain, but It was so very hard for 
her to resign herself to it. But God would help her. She 
exhibited with childish delight, letters from her little 
American grand daugliters. She found a vast deal of 
pleasure in perusing these missives, though she could' no't 
read them. The childish scrawl appeared to her an ex- 
hibition of unusual talent; each crude twist and tura, 
blot or dot, tbearing evidence of remarkable intelligence 



11 

and skill. During my reading of them, she poured forth 
& running accompaniment of audible comments, her face 
expressive of much wonder at my proficiency In voicing 
In living, spoken lapguage, those beloved, uncertain, ink 
tracings, 

"Did you know, good sir, that your grandpa was a 
mighty lively youngsrter, and that his jolly jokelS and 
happy pranks were without end'? Still they were as noth- 
ing compared to those of your great grandfather, who 
remained) a fun maker, all his born days. He was an 
itinerant blacksmith. Once when happening to tarry in 
the kitchen, when the mush was cooking, he saw the lady 
of the house throw the necessary gait into it, having done 
which, she left the room. Directly, the daughter entered, 
and not thinking the salting had been attended to, did 
so herself. Up'on seeing this, and finding himself alone, 
your great grandfather grabbed a huge salty handful and 
slung it into the kettle, stirring the mixture, thoroughly 
and conscientiously. At the table all made wry faces 
ever the grewsome mess set before them. The m'Other 
looked at the diaughter, and the daughter at the mother, 
whereupon, they both knew. The two then happened to 
look at Andrew, who appeared entirely too natural, and 
suddenly, he knew, they knew. He soberly explained to 
*he family, that, as all the others who entered the room, 
had been in the habit of plying salt at that kettle, he 
thought it only his duty, also, to do so. Wherever he was 
treated shabbily by his customers, he would threaten to 
revenge himself by putting the steel Into the back of 
their scythes, instead of on the edge. If he happened to 
stop at a place where the housewife was dirty and slovenly, 
he would, sometimes, hide away the knives and spoons» 
tttius enabling him to make an excuse for ndt eaiting^ 
Khere." Arjd' many other such stories, the old lady told', in 



12 

the hazy atmosphere of her tiny little sitting room, that 
day. 

When she was to have her picture taken, she made a 
partial change of her habdlim'ents: right before' 'me, ihaving 
so much to talk about that she could not spare the time 
to go into another room to do it. 

Just before my departure, she asked me to read a 
chapter, to her, from the Bible. She reverently laid away 
the old pipe beside her spectacles, folded her hands, and 
listened with close attention. The tobacco smok© lingered 
lovingly about her rapt features while I read, and though 
it looked odd, it struck me as being no more out of place 
than when preachers or others, envelop themselves in 
clouds of similar substance, enjoyed, virtuously and con- 
tentedly, promptly at the close of services. She had her 
smoke just preceding the exercises, they immediately 
after. 

My advent had awakened many memories; she owned 
that her mind acted as if she were in a trance. She 
averred, again and again, that it was the most unheard 
of thing that a grandson of Nils should come to seek her 
out this way, after all these years. Having aroused her 
feelings so, the parting became cruel. I heard after- 
wards that the lonely old soul had not slept a wink the 
night following. 

As I descended to the road on my way to the hills, I 
turned about and saw, of all rainbows, the most beauti- 
ful, hovering over old Marit's hut. In another moment, 
the afternoon sun came peeping out, flinging its sparkling 
rays against her window, and though I could not make 
out the hut, the panes stared forth as living balls of fire, 
supporting shafts of gold penetrating far into the valley 
and all about. Thus did Marit's mountain home pass 
from my sight. 



13 

The next morning found me busy climbing the less&r 
heights on the left, for I was determined, while passing 
this way, to get a glimpse of the mountain hotel at Foa- 
heim's "sseter," and the surrounding scenery as well. It 
has become all the rage for city dwellers to flee to these 
sseter hotels during high summer, to bask in jolly friend- 
ships, "rommekolle," and the bracing mountain air. The 
pretty little saeter cows turned loo^e above the clouds, in 
vallej^s between the snow drifts, find a sufficient supply 
oif the rare, succulent grasses, to satisfy their wants and. 
fill their milk bags, these, in turn, being greedily tapped 
by tlie mountain idlers. To say one is hungry, up here, 
is but a meaningless phrase, but to say that one feels con- 
tinually like a famished Russian wolf, better describes 
the situation; this being the normal, or if you will, ab- 
normal state of the appetite. All are ashamed of them- 
selves during the race at dinner, partaking amply — slyly, 
hurriedly, chokingly — 3'et leaving the table in discontent, 
secretly wishing for more. The potatoes were as snow 
flakes, and the venison quite too tempting. "Romme- 
kolle," is pure angels' food, being milk with raised cream, 
powdered, on top, with ground toast and sugar, 

I was in great luck, for I unearthed a distant relative 
in the person of the manager of the hotel, and at dinner, 
I was given gratis, the seat of honor among 150 guests. 
I felt truly distinguished. A famous kapelmeister from 
Copenhagen, and an aristocratic looking professor from 
the university of Christiania, were placed' one on either 
side of me, and although being desperately hungry, I felt 
it due them, that I ought to try to appear as though this 
little matter of eating, in such splendid presence, was 
quite immaterial. I am afraid' sonie of our near neigh- 
bors waxed warm under a similar strain; the professor, 
meanwhile, remaining blissfully oblivious of the effect of 



14 
the sublimity of his presence, seeing little, and caring not 
a continental, what the others did. It is a matter of spec- 
ulation, how that hungry crowd would! hare acted, if the 
unwritten law had not held us tied. Oh, for a chance to 
lift that soup bowl bodily, and for once, to finger and toss 
to our heart's content. But, nothing such happened, for, 
remarkably enough, the laws of conventionality, which 
we may break if we will, hold firmer sway than those of 
the state. 

After dinner we were tumbled unceremoniously out 
upon the spacious veranda, for coffee. As I sat sipping 
the nerve upsetting liquid, I gazed with much admiration 
on the scene far below. The beautiful Strand fjord lay 
sunning, glossy and placid in its chosen haunts, with not 
a ripple to Intrude upon its face. Pretty Follinglo lay 
peeping out from its corner far in the distance, with 
hundreds of other simall farms lying prettily scattered 
about, on either shore of the narrow fjord skirting the 
parallel stretch of green crested hills. Little patches of 
irregular fields, variously conceived, made the variety 
monotonous; the variegated scene reminding one of noth- 
ing else so much as a huge crazy quilt. The nearby wa- 
ter-falls kept up their eternal din; though Interesting to 
see, they are bothersome to the ear and' get on the 
nerves. It cannot but be a great trial to the man who 
lives close by, to> have this noise everlastingly drummed 
into him. My eyes, eternally fed by the livelong Iowa 
prairie prospect, feasted; joyously on the new food set be- 
fore them in the form of these valleys and fjords, the 
sseters, the distant mountain tops with their perpetual 
white coverings — which, by the way, reminds me that I 
must be getting on, for I am to climb them. 

On the steps, going out, I was confronted by a Nor- 
wegian engineer who lives in Berlin and who, seeing I 



15 

was an American, volunteered the Information that he 
had just visited America, but had found it dull. "There 
is noise enough, and power enough, the same, for in- 
stance, as in that water fall over there, but I missed life. 
Your people are not living, they are just enduring. Our 
people live on much smaller incomes, and yet glean more 
pleasure and satisfaction out of existence than yours do." 
I asked him where' he had sojourned. "Pittsburg," said 
he. "Well, next time you call, linger near the Mississippi 
for awhile, view the farms and villages in the great mid- 
dle west, get into the heart of the true America, and 
then climb up 'here and tell me your story." 

After having delivered my testimony, I hurried along 
in the wake of two Danish tourists who were taking a 
short cut down the mountain side, back to the main road. 
There is nothing more joyously thrilling, than in thus 
getting into unexplored regions, just so there Is some one 
near to place the 'blame on, in case of trouble. My fair 
giuides were genuine talkers and no mistake. What funny 
speech! Their jerky enunciation reminded me of noth- 
ing else in the world so much as the cackling of two 
ducks (provincial dialect). A great number of Germans 
and Danes invade Norway during the summer tdurist sea- 
son, many coming even in ■winter. Though for the m'ost 
part gentle-folk, there happen those among them who are 
not at all overburdened with modesty, being aggresslv© 
in the extreme, talking and' acting as if being the only 
lords left. 

The next morning found me on the main avenue, 
bound for the snow mountains. I determined that noth- 
ing should turn me from the road' again; that I would 
make a bee-line along the crooked valley for the' very 
highest point. I found myself walking in the company of 
some boys and girls hailing from different points, viz. 



16 
Christiania and Bergen. They were pupils and teachers 
aut for recreation, and, a jolly lot they proved to be. We 
had a glorious tramp that day. 

The smooth, even roads of Norway make it the pe- 
destrian's paradise. The splendid highways fringed with 
lovely scenery, attract numerous pleasure seekers of vari- 
ous pattern, of whom a great many are unprovided with 
other carrying vehicles than strong shoes. To think that 
an American, always on wheels, should have forgotten 
all about it, and stood, in one season, 350 miles of walk- 
ing, on roads and rugged by-paths, up hill and down hill, 
i5» not recorded with the supposition that it will be 
readily believed; it is put down only because it belongs 
here. 

We turned around at least 500 times, that day; walk- 
ing, semi-circularly, along the roadway. The panorama 
was constantly shifting, both fore and aft. Thus, certain 
scenes, with a seemingly set expression, would assume an 
entirely different aspect wlien we reached them, or viewed 
them from an opposite directionr Sometimes the road 
hung precariously on stony ledges looking straight down 
several hundred feet, we being foolhardy enough to take 
it. At other times it went in serpentine windings, with- 
out any seeming aim or direction, leading into nowhere, 
but we did not care, we just kept lolling on, following it. 
There are over 17,000 miles of these floor-like, happy-go- 
lucky road's in Noirway, and. it cost sixty cents a head, to 
build them. 

We talked to all the people we met, and they had no 
objection, for time isn't money at all here. The moment 
they set eyes on the American, there ensued always a 
dead stop, for I must needs tell my story, and answer 
eager questions, about relatives and friends, in all corners 
of forty-fOiUr states. 



17 

"We enjoyed viewing the mowers, as they attacked the 
timothy and clover fields with their scythes, bending their 
fcodies into a very correct angle, each time they took a 
(rtroke. They picked) up the hay with thehr hands, and 
hung it upon rails or strings, one ahove another, to dry. 
In the harvest field, (oats and barley) the whole family 
helped, from the aged grandmother, down to the future 
grandfather, now a mere toddler, who got in the way and 
made himself a nuisance, meanwhile, looking fully as 
much occupied as any of them. 

We saw many young girls In the grainflelds, bending 
low, scythe in hand, to cut the grain. From their stoop- 
ing postures they looked at us sideways, as we passed. It 
was decided that it was hardi to withstand anything like 
that, especially when it had royal red cheeks, a curled up 
mouth, blue eyes and golden hair. They looked robust 
and well fed, and not at all overworked. 

In spite of their slow-moving propensities the people 
here have neatly kept farms and homes, and though they 
generally arrive on the porpoise style, they get there un- 
worried, sound and intact. WTiat we do not to today, 
we prefer to do tomorrow, is the sum total of the im- 
prespions I received, of the tone and tenor of their work- 
aday habits. 

People actually live the simple illfe over here; and al- 
though they spend a good deal of time In eating, say 
four or five times a day, and some coffee spreads besides, 
slipping in a nap or two on top, they do it utterly with- 
out flourishes. This enables the housewife to make her 
escape out into God's air and sunshine and also to help 
with the outside work. The women are seen everywhere, 
even at the polls. 

"We lingered along the roadside, admiring the flowers, 
«f which, there is an endless variety, and all being so 



18 
beautiful that we could not make our choice, hence pluck- 
ing none, from sheer indecision. Anyway, a flower loses 
too much of its charm and meaning to be thus, ruthlessly, 
torn away from its setting. I like to admire the features 
of each separate kind as they appear, unblemished, oa 
their own domain; it being impossible to fall rightly in 
love with a lot of pretty faces, kidnapped, in a bunch, 
and dying ones at that. There are almost as many flow- 
ers as there Is grassi, and no wonder tihe tiny, Jersey-like 
cows, who eat both, making no discrimination, are sucln 
esthetical looking brutes. Sometimes we v/ould forget to 
go on, tarrying in the woods, studying the trees by the 
wayside. The spruce is the lovliest, I think, and also 
the most valuable, for it provides fuel and lumber wortli 
millions. So does, also, the Scotch fir. They grow amic- 
ably side by side, but sometimes they part company, the 
spruce going east, and the Scotch fir wandering tow^ards 
the rather treeless west coast, where it happens in groves, 
and also scatteringly, In uninviting places, where the 
spruce never has the temerity to fs-llow. We saw th« 
jolly fir, breezily waving its arms in the wind, tiptoeing 
on impossible ledges appearing to be quite bare of soil. 
The birch loves to have for its companions the spruce and 
fir, and snuggles in between, wherever there is a chance. 
Sometimesi we could see it sallying bravely forth, forming 
groves of its O'wn; also, I was greatly surprised' to meet 
with it far up the mountain, sides, ever so much higher 
than either of its companions dared venture. It ha* 
grown old and diwarfy looking from, the fierce exposure 
and strenuoiu« clliab. 

We were careful not to disturb the birds, for It was 
yet nesting time with some of them, or at least, school 
time for their homely offspring. There was evidently 
much tutoring going on, for we could hear snatches of 



19 
aong and subdiued warblings, whenever we had a mind to 
listen. The school of flying being In seseion, w© were 
given an opportunity to witness many an amazing flight, 
ill-starred, and otherwise. We had happened in the 
midst of the birdsi* paradise. The various families fore- 
gather in the early summer, accordingly as Instinct im- 
pels them; then there is glorious music In the northland. 
The sun sits so high in the heavens that it scarcely sets 
during mid-summer, and the birds just can't go to sleep, 
when bed-time comes, but rollick around and sing as If 
their tiny bodies would burst, from joyous exertion. Even 
kuman beings catch the contagion, and join in the chorus, 
inspired thereto by those glorious Norwegian Bights. 

"We brushed elbows with the hog while pursuing the 
even tenor of our way, no one being surprised, he the 
least of all. He grunts with joyous satisfaction at it all, 
•*he live-long day, and well he may, for he is the most 
pampered individual in the country. We saw but few 
homes where they entertained more than one; there be- 
ing but one pig, for every eight persons, they say. He 
gets all ihe left over morsels — the dog just hates him — 
and is stroked and squeezed by everybody. No wonder 
ke thrives and is so utterly good-natured. In return he 
yields up his flesh — made from barley, oats and the afore- 
mentioned morsels — with merely an expostulating squeal, 
and the table is forthwith provided with meat, which is 
tender and fine tasting as a chicken. 

For every two persons we met, we might figure on 
meeting about one hen, scarcely any more, for such is 
the ratio and proportion. They are rather small, but 
very spry and useful. They make no pretensions as to 
kreed, taking cheerfully to the "never was born" prin- 
ciple. They cackle, fight and scratch up the garden, like 
well brought up hens, the world over. They set with 



so 

doffged detertnuiation, feelingf within their rights, for they 
are quite handy to lay egga. The rooster, though rather 
slim and dusty looking, being of an off color, strutted 
about with the usual amount of arrogance and empty 
headed concern. There is but one such fellow to man- 
age each flock, and there being no other to dispute his 
doings, he may crow in peace without being choked off 
by envious competitora 

Little skunk-like dogs barked earnestly at us, as we 
passed the premises each one seemed to own. Some big 
cats lay near the road in deep lethargy, eyes apparently 
closed and unseeing, motionless — scat, nobody said a 
word; there ensued a series of sudden hoarse sniffs, sev- 
eral silent black strea,ks, and In a twinkling, the birds 
had some highly undesirable companions In the tree tops. 
They looked hard and unblinkingly at us from above, 
with sinister, gleaming eyes, beckoning us on and away. 
At night, they take up the thread, and continue the music 
ushered In by the song birds by day, in their own way, 
but from a different station. They are very large cats, 
with vocai chords of corresponding calibre. The feline 
choruses of the long winter nights of the Northland are 
famous. 

Troughs of various pattern, indifferent and otherwise, 
were placed along the roadside, here and there, to catch 
water from trickling little streams tumbling down the 
mountain side, providing refreshment for all passers by, 
man or beast. The horses when thirsty, turn towards 
these troughs without looking for permission from the 
driver. And they seem to do most of the managing other- 
wise as well, for they generally regulate the speed and 
the number of short stops judged necessary. They never 
hurry up hill, halting frequently, but down hill they make 
up for lost time, not because they would rather, but be- 



21 
cause it just happens that way. They let themselves fall 
recklessly forward with a great to-do of clattering hoofs, 
so as to keep from under the swaying vehicle thundering 
on behind. They swing their heads every which way to 
display their Independence. They do not enjoy being 
checked up. It is hardly any use trying. In fact they 
do not allow it. This overbearing attitude may be ex- 
plained when considering their scarcity; the number of 
people, being as 16 to 1 of horses in Norway. When 
once in a great while we happened to rjde behind them 
In the Norwegian two-wheeled carts commonly in use, we 
were made to feel all the gyrations of the stiff-necked 
creature's body; if he stumbled into a rut, we' became 
unwilling partakers in all his motions; when on the trot, 
he flung us up and down, steadily and painstakingly. 

"We called at a house for refreshments, and were not 
turned away. Hospitality is the rule; mone3'-making be- 
ing, apparently, no object. Though the tourist traffic is 
biinging in a scent of it, let us hope that the day is far 
distant, before this comfortable state of affairs will be 
addled. Stout logs had been used in the erection of this 
house, as also in the other houses in this vicinity, and 
indeed, practically all over the country. Like the ma- 
jority of dwellings in this section, it was neither sided nor 
painted, presenting a rather naked aspect to the world 
and the elements. The latter had unblushingly laid hand 
on its golden colored nudity, and in the course of time, 
overdrawn the logs with a blackish-brownish color. The 
slate roof looked very pretty. It was brought from the 
great slate quarry in east Valders. We entered by an 
entrance door. There Is always the matter of an extra 
door, or go, to hinder outsiders from stepping right into 
the bosom of the family, the first thing. The rooms were 
placed giomewhat at random, we thought, but as tastes fcad 



22 
eustoms difier greatly, we will refrain fro'm discUiSsinig 
eitiher. There was a kitchen, living- room, bedi roo'ms amd 
even the proverbially unuised parlor. There were plenity of 
chairs and benches, but no rocking chairs. The floors were 
gay with, rag carpeta. In each window nodded a pretty 
house plant. The wall was adorned with an old fashioned 
clock; pictures of an American bride or two; a nicely 
oirnanientedl ghelf containing copies of the local paper,. 
& few books of dievotion, some hymn books and the Bible. 
No ihorrld yellow journals littered the floor, or disturbe'd 
the serenity of the rather bare, but clean looking walls. 
There 'was an air of wholesome calm about it all. No 
danger of stepping on anyone's toes in a community like 
this. By the way, wooden shoes are the rule, being also 
symbols of peace. Whoever heard of a thief, or mauraud- 
ing villian, prowling about in wooden shoes! And there 
are few, it any, such, here. 

Towards four o'clock, our feet, which hadi nobly borne 
the brunt of our exertions so far, clamored for considera- 
tion. Though shut off from the scenery, these requisites 
are partakers, and the moment they offer a plaint, It 
usually happens that the eye itself, is in ready sympathy, 
and gladly welcomes a change and rest. The moment we 
set eyes on the Oylo hotel, we made for it, looking neither 
to the right nor to the left, ignoring, in deference to our 
nether appendages, all views and attractions. 

Some one has said that to rest is the most d'elicious of 
TbO'dlly enjoyments, which, if it be true, let us suggest that 
to eat well prepared food comes next in order. The home- 
like hostelries, scattered, as by accident, all about, some- 
times hy the roadside, sometimes far above It, amply 
provide for these things. 

My comipanions went back per "Kariole," to their ho- 
tel, having had enough exercise to last the day. Let it 



23 
be here explained-, that the reason these vehicles are 
called "Kariole," is because of the first couple who began 
using them. They both wanted to bequeath their names 
to the outfit, the wife's being Kari, and the husband's 
plain Ole. Kari was set on having her name, alone, per- 
petuated by the vehicle, but honest Ole wasn't quite sat- 
isfied to agree to this. The minister happening by while 
the dissension was in progress, and' being a peacemaker, 
was struck by a bright Idea, he suggesting that they 
should meet hal'fways, merge into one, as it were, the 
same as when ihe tied the knot the first time, and call it 
Kari-Ole. Ole liked' the idea first rate, and Kari, utterly 
at a loss for words to continue the argument, maintained 
a silence which was construed into consent, so "Kariole" 
they have been called to this day. 

I iwas left to make history all by myself, tlie next day, 
and trudged on lonesome enough, murmuring a little 
against fate which had one daj"" brought one Into suck 
heartj- companionship with the jolly Finn and the lo- 
quacious Ulla, onily to tear us ruthlessly and for- 
ever apart, the next. Like the little boy who for lack of 
a playmate made up to a post, I looked about for some 
such consolation and saw, beokonlng to me, not only 
posts and the cutest fences, but all nature in her smiling- 
est mood decked out with lovely fjords, tumbling water- 
falls and majestic snow clad mountains. I took to them 
at once, being completely enthralled, forgetting for the 
time being the hej'dey of 5-esterda5% and the days gone 
before. And I was glad that I could forget, otherwise 
the poor little brain would burst from the numerous and 
all too livid impressions. One mountain, especiall5^ at- 
tracted me, bearing, as it did, an almost personal ex- 
pression, making question, as it were, with every varying 
features, of the Thing creeping along at its base. It gave 



24 
forth a challenge to discover aught of the wond'erful 
secrets it contained in its innermost bowels, seeing that it 
exhibited' so much on the outside, which, however, as far 
as the eye could penetrate, only contained one billionth 
of its mass. The old Vikings had this all figured out and 
settled. They helieved that in the interior were vast 
rooms where the "Jokuls," the great mountain giants 
lived. From Jokul comes the name Jotunheim (Home of 
the Jokuls). 

I passed along Vangs[mij6sen, the lovliest lake one can 
see, had bread and' cheese at Grindaheim, where I re- 
gretted that I wasn't an artist to paint the magnificent 
surroundings, and pressing on, made haste to reach /Skog- 
stad, the last stopping place at the end of the valley, the 
road here ascending to Framnes, the gateway proper of 
the mountain wilderness. 

I was overtaken by a raincloud' first seen magnificent- 
ly forming in the distance, which, upon nearer approach, 
mirrored itself beautifully in the lake, flinging, also, its 
clearly outlined shadow against a precipitous mountain 
wall across the fjord, and finally without warning, dark- 
ening the heavens about, enfolding me in the form of a 
sudden shcwer. As I hurried along under my umbrella, I 
hap'penedi to give vent to a profound sneeze, which, to 
my intense surprise, was heard and enjoyed' by a party 
of pedestrians, some happy female tourists, who had 
taken refuge under a projecting rock by the roadside. A 
burst of merriment, of uncontrollable laughter, startled 
me nearly out of my wits, but I had presence of mind 
enough to proceed mechanically on, having gotten over 
the habit of 'looking furtively behind me on such oc- 
casions. I had' seen this rollicking crowd far in advance, 
but who would have dreamed that they should happen to 
be eavesdropping just at the psycho-logical moment, when 



25 

the unlooked for explosion was due to occur. Althoug'b 
it had no effect on the downpour, it dispelled the gloom — 
lor them. Tourists, let loose, are like children; they 
glory in tomfoolishness. 

The ^mountains were very tall, quite precipitous and 
ever so wonderfully built on either side as I proceeded 
along the valley, and see them all I must, but to enjoy 
them, it became necessary to hold the 'head back at an 
extremely uncomfortable angle. It was very fatiguing 
work; being hard on the eye3, hard to do any swallow- 
ing, and the gait became very erratic andi uncertain. But 
it paid. There were g'lorious sights to be seen up there» 
and down here, behind, and everywhere. In one place 
there was a fantastic formation of the cliffs, which looked 
like a 'huge decayed tooth set on edge. It appeared as 
though it might ,once have been a molar in a Jokul's 
mouth. There liad evidently been big doings in the moun- 
tain, when that particular member came out, miuch loose 
rock lying scattered about. And what of the travail that 
preceeded it? It must have been an earthquake. In 
several places I could see by the form, where great big 
fragments of rock, which I passedi, had lain Imbedded in 
the mountain above, before being shook out. In some 
places there were millions of fragments, large and small, 
strewn about. I was continually on the look out, and in 
no little trepidation, on account of missiles that I feared 
mig^ht possibly come hurtling from above, but the rocks* 
all retained their balance that day. During protracted 
wet spells in the spring, outl'ying rocks have a tendency 
to loosen, some being washed out. Though such a thing 
has happened it is exceedingly seldom anyone is caught 
by these rocky missiles. 

To see the sun from my valley seek its couch early 
in the afternoon, as its quivering rim took the final peep 



26 
■over the .hoary tops &f the Jotunheim, sending- an endlesa 
profusion of extra rays about, reminiding' of the final dose 
flung from the fringe of a passing- slioiwer, formed' a glori- 
ous subject for brush and pencil; but, alas, it will not be 
caught, for even the cleverest work pales, utterly, befor© 
actual creation. As soon as the sun had bid good night, 
the mountains commenced to frown, and I at o-nce felt 
rather shut off and hemmed in. I decided then and there, 
that I would never want to live. In a mountain valley. Oh, 
for a glimpse of my prairie home in 4.he west, where the 
sun settles in a maze of glory, kissing the earth goo 4 
night at the proper time, and sending its departing rays 
lovinglj'^ back and with wonderful effect into magical cloud 
formations, appearing at times similar, and if it were pos- 
sible, almost an improvement on tlie mountains them- 
selves, 

Skogatad liotel is now one of the has-beens, havinig 
Ibeen superseded by hotels nearer the snow line, wihither 
the whim of the present day tourist trends. It still has 
some custom, being situated at the Jhase of the rapid in- 
cline which leadls into the regions of perpetual snow, but 
its popularity is rapidly waning, being as nothing com- 
pared to what it was in the olden days, before the time of 
automobiles and mountain hostelries. The course of the 
tourist stream is changeable and erratic. Where in place* 
it flows steadily and unceasingly, it may unexpectedly 
take a spasmodic turn, and eventually dwindle away, 
■forming a course in another direction, abandoning its for- 
mer haunts nearly altogether. As new fields are coni- 
quered, hotels spring up as if by magic, to meet all de- 
mands. In one place, where I arrived tired, footsore aai 
iiungry, instead of meeting with the usual smiling face 
-of an ever attentive maid at the door, my own answering: 
smile being ail prepared, it — the conquering smile — faded 



27 
■sadly and sorrowfully away, when, in answer to mjr 
knock, what I thought to be the welcome patter of pretty 
f«et, proved to be the scampering of rats. I had struck 
an abandoned house. 

To walk up a gradual incline is a conundrum to the 
senses, it being difficult to embrace as a reality, that 
which the eye, usually so reliable, refuses to accept. But 
«»e has to, in spite of the version of the eyes reporting 
it to be level, the tired legs and the short quick breaths 
unerringly revealing the true situation; you are walking 
up hill and no mistake. After much hard breathing and 
thumping of the heart, I arrived at a place where the 
read forked. Here I was in a quandary, net being fully 
decided whether I wanted to take the west fork, which 
led past File mountain, the road which grandfather took, 
•r, whether I should make a detour, go northeast through 
^a,rkest J'otunheim, climb Gald'hopiggen mountain and 
later, after having passed through Lorn and Sogn, re- 
•over grandfather's tracks at LardalsOren. A voice whis- 
pered: You are not prepared for such a journey. An- 
©ther said: You are afraid! I was on my mettle at once, 
and flung back almost without thinking: I will climb 
©aldhopiggen, just because I am afraid, so there, and I 
did, but not yet. The die was cast, and I strvick out hur- 
riedly to the right, once the decision was made, so as to 
tee quickly rid of prudent questionings and uncertain- 
ties. 

After a little, I met with some road laborers, who- told 
me I could gain much time by taking a short cut up the 
naountain side instead of following the windings of the 
»ain road. I decided to take that road. I felt that I was 
in for it now, anyway, hence might as v/ell begin with a 
mild adventure at once, thus becoming gradually used to 
them by getting a proper foretaste. The eyes did not 



28 
try to fool me here, it beingr useless, the steepness being 
so dense that it rose up rigTit before me and I could touck 
it by reaciiijag out my hands. I met some sweet faced, 
patient looking cows on one of the madly careening 
slopes, who ga-zed mildly and questioningly at me, as if 
to say: We are sorry for you! We are looking for grass, 
other'wise we wouldn't be here. Nor would I, had I 
kinawn the territory. The cows seeminig to realize this, 
sadly lowered their heads as if to show their sympathy, 
beginning again their usual aibsent minded cropping. 
When I finally regainedi the road, all perspiration, eye» 
bulging, blodfl' boiling, I was obliged to rest, and specu- 
lated the while on the Foolishness of Mam in general. 
The most galling of all was when getting up to go, I 
felt stifC. So-me lady tourists who stayed by the ro** 
!had, meaaw9idle, porpoise like, almost caught up witk 
the "palpitating hare," finally passing him gaily by, im- 
maculate ft* ever. 

The spruce, the fir, and the birch^ had said' their good- 
byes, each ia their turn, and I now found myself at a 
lieight wJiere I had to console myself with mere moun- 
tain moss; Mueiberries anid stray mountain flowers. In 
sunny, highly favored places, there grow tufts of grass at 
surpTisingly high altitudes. The sheep andi even, the cat- 
tle, not to naention the ubiquitous goat, hunt these choice 
tidbits, Wtoeii in the heights one may suddenly be 
startled, by moving things, wftiich may be taken for m.0'Uii- 
taln hobg^tjlitis or even worse, and amidst the strange 
Surroundings, the peculiar colorings and predominatinff 
gtreyish t«ne of it all., it takes the untrained eye quite 
awhile to know which is which; how to decide thci dif- 
ference beCweea rolling, stonea, gnomes, or a morsel hunt- 
ing goat, ^^he potir eye is conilnually at a sad Iosb in 
«ueh odd surroundings, for neither can it judge dsistanfcea 



29 

properly, nor rightlj' interpret colorings. 

Proceeddng on, I came upon a great number of stones, 
large and small, dropped from nowhere, scattered loosely 
alDout on the mountain tops. Some lay near the edges 
ready to fall, yet hesitating, as if dreading to let go, on 
account of the^ fearful drop. While pondering the pe- 
culiar action of nature, in thus carelessly spilling 
things about, my contemplations were disturbed by some 
autos, which sped quickly by, leaving me as rapidly as 
they came, only to disappear in the clouds. It looked 
comfortable on those fairy-vehicled'-cushions, but after 
examining into the curvatures and embankments of the 
narrow roadway, I decided' that it looked dangerous, in- 
finitely preferring to remain on the cushions of my own 
feet. 

I caught up with the autos at Framnes hotel, placed 
at the socalled portal of the Jotunheim. It stands at the 
Aery edge of Tyinn lake, one of the highest, if not the 
liighest, of mountain lakes in Norway, of any size. It is 
wholly surrounded by snow peaks. The event of the- day 
w^as dinner, as usual. We eat to live, of course, but up 
here everybody bangs the old adage upside do.wH and 
just bolts, in rapturous, mouth-filling desire, blessing the 
delicious craving for food. We had venison, fish, potatoes 
and gra,vy; and rice pudding with blueberries and cream! 
There was but a tiny speck of bread on the table; Nor- 
wegians only niblDle small morsels of it, for dinner. The 
guests rushed together, pell mell, like oM' acquaintances, 
forgetting all about introductions and such, h:avins dia- 
■earded all but the most presmng of forms and conven- 
tions, when they passed the cloud line. After the atter- 
noon coffee, the majority boaPiaetl a modest little motor- 
feoat which had slipped in, ever to quietly, during the 
half-9tupor, following upon dinner. The tirny cmft 



30 
looked so unreal in these surroundings that we hesitated 
about trusting our precious selves into its frail keeping. 
But it suddenly took to blustering, showing that it was in 
for business, rushing off with its party of dawdling 
dreamers, before we were fully aware of w'hat was being 
done to us. We could see nothing at any distance, on ac- 
©ount of a shower of rain that followed faithfully at our 
heels, remaining, also, a few steps in advance nearly- the 
•ntire distance. To me, it was a refreshing sight, because 
it came down like a real western shower; not the usual 
tiresome drizzle that is so commonly precipitated' in Nor- 
way. As we did not have much else to occupy our atten- 
tion, we watched with curious interest the drops as they 
fell, with many a splash, into the seemingly ever unpre- 
pared, unsustpecting, yielding, bosom of the lake. There 
were looking glasses slanting inwards over the cabin, 
just above the ,windows, and the reflection in them, froin 
the water immediately beneath, made^ it appear as if we 
were sailing upside down, or in a sub-marine boat, with 
windows in the roof. The effect was weird in the ex- 
treme; we decided that we were in a sure-enough fairy 
boat after all. As the shower took away the view, 
our field-glasses and other sight -seeing paraphernalia re- 
mained of no use, so we fell to using the old ordinary 
eye, also, having had our fill of watching the rain, we 
took to examinling each other. Penned, up, face to face, 
we had an excellent opportunity to size each other up. 
What, after all, is so interesting as thds furtive analysis of 
all these funny faces, barring, of course, always your 
own. 

The queer way one English lady was dressed, and her 
really wonderful accent and' enunciation, proved, to our 
satisfaction, that we had made no mistake about the boat 
being of the Munchausen type. She herded an unwilling^ 




'i 

o 



31 
tinapureciative husband about, fore and aft, and every- 
where, who yawned in answer to her talk. We liked her, 
though, for she naade company, and showered pleasant 
looks about. Blessed be the fellow traveller who doesn't 
look glum and isn't above talking about nothing, eepe- 
cially in a fog, or, when it rains. The captain, engineer 
and ticket puncher, was a one man combination, looking, 
meanwhile, for all the world, like a dried up, wrinkly 
yank. And, sure enough, he had haunted Columhia's 
shores for quite a number of years as boss thresher and 
engineer, but had now, for reasons 'best known to himself, 
struck the native heath once more. He thought he 
handled English, as though he knew no other language, 
but no one else thought so, I ihave met several suclh 'hom- 
ing birds, who claim they have forgotten the only lan- 
guage they really know, in, say six years' stay in Aimerica, 
and upon their return, pester the natives and others with 
a conglomeration nobody can srtay or grasp. 

The other passengers consisted mostly of Norwegians 
and Danes who were all so quiet and unassuming, that 
they disappeared, as it were, in the general landscape, 
reminding one, with their yellowish, gutta percha coats 
and wraps, of kahki colored soldiers. 

While on board this boat I learned that the outlets of 
the twin lakes Tyinn and Bygdin, are to' be dammed up, 
making them several feet deeper, thus imprisoning count- 
less cubic feet more of the inflow, enabling the power 
plants to tap therefrom, a steady supply of water the 
year around. It is led through big iron pipes into the 
valleys, thousands of feet helow, plunging downwards 
with incredible swiftness and a mighty onslaught of 
power. 

The busy motor labored steadily for over an hour to 
fetch us over this lazy mountain pool andi once 



32 
across, we were hailed with vociferous acclaim by the 
guests and proprietor of Tyinnholm hotel. But I was 
ebliged to foreg-o the pleasure of closer comradieship, be- 
ing due to climb "Skindheggen" and reach "Eidsbugaren," 
•before nightfall. 

I found Eidsbugaren hotel situated about half an 
hours walk from Lake Tyinn, overlooikimg Lake Byigdin. 
The roadi leading to it had been well worked as far as the 
hotel, but dwindled into a mere mountain path Ijeyond it. 
Plaving come about half ways, I fell in with an old naian 
vvho met my advances most heartily, volunteering to de- 
liver to me all the information he possessed', regarding 
the mountain I wished to climb. It lay on our right ever 
so unassuming; but I hadn't climbed it j'et. The old man 
told me he had' climibed it once, taking the path which led 
from Eidsbugaren. I asked him if I could reach the to'p 
by taking a short cut right across from where we stood. 
He thought, perhaps I might. And if there was any 
danger of my sinking into bogs, crashing throug-h treach- 
erous ice coverings, or some such thing. "Possibly not." 
With such solid assurance to gird and strengthen my feet, 
I set bravely forth. A lady to whom I had delivered 
greetings at Tyinnholm hotel, happening to pass toy, re- 
garded me fixedly as though taking her last look. 

I started off full speed' at once, like genuine green- 
horns nearly always do. On account of the indescribable 
roughness of the ground, my steps were uneven and ir- 
regular. Sometimes the legs went sideways, missing 
the mark entirely, leaving the feet tO' grope tremblingly 
for another foothold, or going beyond my control alto- 
gether. I made quite rapid headway in my own style, 
meanwhile, getting most uncomfortably _^ warm, obtain- 
ing relief only by flinging open my coat and vest to the 
breeze. There were no trees, but plenty of moss and 



33 
«haracterless stones, with here and there wisps of grass 
g'one astray. There were innumerable hothersome little 
teogs and valleys. I experienced a tremendous shrink- 
ing each time I must needs venture out on those horrid 
iBog things. But they ihore me up Hiost o'hUgiHgly and 
eearcely a tremor did I feel. When passing through the 
little valleys, I felt very lonesome, for I was quite shut 
eft from the world, the view being obstructed in every 
Airection, except directly overhead, where the familiar,, 
friendly old blue gave encouragement, cheerily beckon- 
ing me on. Each time I climibed out of the valleys, I 
figured on stepping out near the mountain top, which 
seemed but a stone's throw away, but such never hap- 
pened. Yet, after numberless repetitions andi disap- 
pointments, I finally became possessed of the Impression 
thait I hajd actually gained on that elusive t&p so'me, but 
»ot much. My exertions became frantic, and happening 
MOW for the first time to glance around, I was startled at 
the height I had already attained. The roafi looked no 
fcigger than a piece of twine; the hotels resenc^led match- 
Tioxes. This moment's halt convinced me, also, that I 
toad a heart. It had hecome the seat of a lively turmoil,, 
eending the 'blood coursing riotously through ihe body 
and demanding an enormous amount of extra fereathing 
to keep it going. It saw to a great many things to which 
I had never given any thought, the perspiration part, 
especially, being particularly well attended to. My gaze 
was lifted for an instant from below and I had a glimpsb 
•f glories soon to be, but I resolutely shut my eyes to 
them, till I might enjoy them, undisturbed from the out- 
look at the top. My head would turn' nov/ and then in 
spite of myself and the eyes, being off guard, couldn't 
help taking furtive peeps, blaming meanwhile, the rest- 
less head for delivering them into temptation. What 



34 
could one do with such unruly members. I simply re- 
fused to accept or toelieve what they would tell, and. 
hence, do not report it. 

After a •well-nig'h interminabile climb over moss' banacn 
and other banks, spiteful little mountain brooklets, aa- 
tique snow beds that sipoke with a voice of hollownesa 
underneath, acres of loose rocks and' boulders, where the 
water hissed between andi where missteps and tricky 
stones nearly sient me sprawling; after all this, and more 
besides, I finally arrived, panting at the top. 

I was not in an esthetical mood the first minute or 
two, and exerted', therefore, all my will power to hold tha 
greedy eyes in leash, till all the necesisary faculties would 
be in fitting condition to appreciate things, accordingrly 
as those nimible spies gathered in the data. 

(Soon after my arrival the clouds flitted obligingly 
apart enabling the setting sun to scatter its parting raya 
profusely aibout, richly enhancing the wond'ere of the 
scene I turned to gaze upon. 

During the raptures of vision wlhich followed, the fuac- 
tidn of breatliing momentarily ceased, and in the all-per- 
vading stillness there floated earthwards, spoken as from, 
afar, the inspired utterance: "Lord what am I that Thou 
art mindful 9f me." The unutterable smallneas of self 
became so apparent, that it loomed up like a giant be- 
fore me, threatening to crush me altogether. I had ta 
crack a smile though, at those big old mountains that 
had to stand, there so helplessly still, while this disappear- 
ing atomi scratched about perfectly as he pleased. In their 
very faces. I expainded, a Idttle, while thus loccupiefllv 
knowing, that, after all, any such s:pirit-equippedl little 
creature, really looms bigger before its Maker, than aU 
the hills in Jotunheltn. 

The numerous peaks appeared like a forest of swarthy 



icicles pointing variously, in weird attitudes, into the 
dome of the heavens. A few were as the driven snow, 
and such it actually was, which had, presumably, lodged 
there in the early days of creation and which to this 
*ay, thanks to the protection of the cold, had held the 
other elements at bay. In places it was blue, which was 
nothing' but the underlying ice with the snow removed, 
also, especially near the mouth of the glacier, it peeped 
through, with greenish ogre-like eyes and broken feat- 
ures, showing of the fearful grind and) pressure of the 
ages. The snow and ice beds show various depths, hav- 
ing filled in of their own ample substance, the irregular 
ruts between the peaks. Here and there, right through 
the midst of the snow fields, could be seen rising the 
head of some unruly rock formation which would not 
remain covered. There were many curious designs exe- 
cuted in ice and snow. The majority of the rocks had 
assumed grotesque shapes, forming, generally and al- 
together, a highly freakish arrangement. 

In its downward course the setting sun threw its rays 
lavishly about, shifting manyhued colorings from place 
t© place, making the scenery play hide and seek, as it 
were. Between my mountain and the sun, the hither 
slfie of the distant peaks showed forbidding, but the 
(PHmmits were rimmed as with purest gold. Turning 
away from the sun tov/ard the opposite side, revealed to 
view the full glory of sky and mountain as the departing 
orb of day, twice magnified, and robed Its Jovllest, threw 
back the good night kiss. 

©lancing about I took note of a greyish Jooklmg object 
creeping carefully up the mountain side toward me. It 
wa® not a wolf, dear reiader, only a bit of fog, a thing far 
«aere dangerous than a wolf, eoHilng as a harbinger of 
*vJl, and settling like a pall over my spirits and the 



36 
scenery. At the sig-ht of it I made the same preparatorr 
motions as ttie man in the moving' picture dices, when 
he wants to be quick, and then just flew down the moun- 
tain side. 

Ever so many have told me that they find it leas 
agreeable t© scramble down a steep incline, than to 
ascend it. I have foundi this to be true, andi all the 
Tnuscles of the legs confirm it. The reason is this: Whea 
going up, the lower leg is often allowed to stand rest- 
fully uprig-ht while itsi companion is seeking a footing. 
The moment t'hia is attended to, the nether one gives a, 
good solid push just when leaving the ground, thus help- 
ing to lift Itself and the body, in conjunction with the 
hoisting one. When going down there is scarcely ever 
any stralglit leg, the one being almost always held in a, 
fearfully tiresome, continually sihifting, variable angle, 
the other remaining, meanwhile, as a dead weight on its 
overburdened companion, while feeling around for an- 
other stepping place. There is this advantage in favor 
of the descent, though; it g'oes fasteT. 'Sometimes the 
advance Is so rapid that the legs are not equal to the 
task impose*d upon them, whereupon they retaliate amd 
take a fling, just letting the body roll. This enables these 
busy memtoers to snatch a few moments respite while 
stall dioing business in a general way. Often they get 
bruised on such haphazard excursions and then the moua- 
tain climber who has to claim them, wishes he could: 
transfer the seat of pain to less Important parts, for the 
time being.. 

Though the fog reached out threateningly, the maia 
body of it never caught me, and I arrived at my des.tina- 
tion hale arud wholesfclnned., but d!renahed throughout, 
from the incessant action of overwlUing pores. They ha,li 
■been on the lookout for me at the hotel, my approach 



37 
liaving been noted even by the lady manager, who ap- 
peared before me in the guise of a mountain fairy dressed 
in fantastic country custom, she having come far up the 
road to offer the hand of welcome. I had not often been 
made so much of, and considering the exalted state of my 
feelings, all this kind' attention proved to be almost more 
than I could tranquilly bear. The situation was saved 
by the wise one in advance offering a few commonplace 
remarks, letting me gently down to earth again. My old 
road acquaintance had worried a great deal, and when 
finally the prodigal turned up, he beamed and cackled aa 
only a friendly old man can or will diO'. The table was 
piled high with good things. The young fairy thing ex- 
isted for nothing else than to hover near and see that the 
belated guest was properly served, he in turn forgetting 
entirely that she was paid to do it, that others were 
treated just as considerately, etc., etc. The other guests 
swarmed away from the fireplace to give the newly ar- 
rived wanderer the in est comfortable place, nothing be- 
ing too good to offer a stranger in straits. 

Human companionship is a mighty good thing, my 
lonesome mountain trip had taught me that, sharply 
whetting my desire for it. At such times one can hardly 
refrain from giggling at every word that is said, nor from 
wanting to caress every shoulder, or slap every knee 
within arm's reach. We smiled lovingly at each other 
above smoking pipes and I rememher taking deep 
-draughts of the smoke rid'den air, smoke' that hadi already 
explored the recesses of every man's lungs in the room 
and which, otherwise, would have 'been obnoxious to me, 
hut was now tolerated, yea enjoyed, considering 'the oc- 
casion. In our readiness to laugh, the climax of every 
story told' was killed', the noise of mirth utterly over- 
wheisming the vehicle which should give it cause. 



38 
.Y\'e were put to bed, one apiece, in single, narrow 
little beds with, a board in front to hinder us from 
tumbling out. Broadly speaking, this gives the Norwe- 
gian a certain sense of security when he sleeps. For a 
covering I had a quilt stuffed with feathers, but feeling 
chilly in the cool rarefiedi mountain air, after my recent 
frenzied exertions, I added two ni:ore, belonging to un- 
used beds in the same tinj' room, snuggling happily un- 
derneath with deep chuckles of contentment. 

It was a long time before I felt any drowsiness, hav- 
ing exerted myself too violently during tiie day, being be- 
sides, occupied with the thought that it would soon grow 
dark which, however, it did not do, remaining light 
enough to read without a light the night through. I lay 
long watching the snow topped mountains through my 
window, being utterly fascinated by their hypnotic, draw- 
ing power. So tense ibecame my gaze, that they finally 
took to moving, exchanging position, nodding to each 
other, and many other such ridiculous things. After 
they took to dancing, I do not remember clearly any more, 
only, I had' a vague feeling as of being under them and 
that they were all feathers. I made a desperate effort to 
shake them off, and awoke' just in time to see the two 
upper feather mattresses sliding to the floor. I was ex- 
cruciatinglj'- wide awake on the instant, feeling, at the 
eame time, a desperate pang of hunger. This I was luck- 
ily enabled to satisfy by devouring the lunch the hotel 
niakls had prepared for an ea,rly morning start, remain- 
ing utterly careless as to whether there would be a re- 
currence of hunger then or not. 

There was no more dreaming for me that night, the 
body refusing to become quiescent after having beea 
forced into such rapturous torments the day previous. 
We were to start for Gjendebo'den at six, "but &» the Dane 



39 
aiad his daughter who were to accom-pany me, d'idn't 
shew up, even after I had waited half an hour for them, 
I started] out alone. Just before leaving, I viewed, the 
li«t of the poet Vinje where years ago he used tO' hie 
into tihe solitude of the mountains to create lofty verse 
t'O set future generations dreaming. 

My way led me over a narrow log, nearly two rods 
lontg, spanning a rushing mountain torrent, where the 
»wirl and turmioil drove the passerby nearly distractedi, 
as with wildly waving arms, it hissed on, beckoning, with 
^frightful gestures, possible victinxs into its whirling em- 
terace. When crossing a bridge like this, it would be 
more agreeable if one could look towards the heavens 
above, and not in the direction of the horrors below, 
*ut as th'e eyes are required to be about the feet, and as 
there are no nornaai eyes that will, on occasion, oblig- 
ingly refrain from rendering a perspective, it is small 
wonder a person becomes dizzy and prone to topple over. 
Finding nothing but cow tracks beyond, the log, it made 
asae wonder if I had unwittingly come in the wake of the 
kine, instead of following the paths of my own kind. I 
kept moving on though, till even the cow tracks disap- 
peared', at which time, I decided to pause and recon- 
H'Oiter. I then took my first look downwards, toward the 
•hotel, and: saw to my surprise, that several people were 
ieve'ling their glasses at me. I comprehended the situa- 
tion at once. I was on the wrong track! But I wouldn't 
own up before all those people, andi suddenly sat down, 
as if allowing myself a much needed rest. I sat on pins 
ends for awhile, but soon tiring of this, I comimenced 
picking flovv'ers, meanwhile, sauntering idly back in the 
direction I had come. After having gathered a bouquet 
large enough to occupy several baskets, and rested more 
iih&u amply in return for the extra effort of y«st©rday. 



40 
the Dane and Ms daughter appeared astride each a horse. 
I silently fell in with them and my secret was safe; no 
one knew I had been lost. 

We meandered along the shores of Lake Bygdin for 
an hour or so ibefore beginning the steep climb which 
leads over the high eminence separating it from its twin 
lake, Gjende. Here the Dane and his daughter were 
obliged to dismount, as the ponies had all they could d» 
to hoist along their own' bodies in such a terrible uphill 
place, let alone the adided weight of an unskilledl rider. 
The good old Dane would-; fain have ridden for his heart 
was weak, and noting a huge waterfall near our path, ex- 
claimed: "O, why is that water so uselessly toppling 
over the cliff yonder? If it was harnessed to an elevator, 
I could become a passenger, and be spared the torture* 
of this climb." Oh fie! to think of spoiling the piotur- 
esqueness of old Jotumheim by putting in such contrap- 
tions as that. Please allow us to get into the mountains, 
to a taste of the primitive, and be rid of modern vehicles 
for a diay. _ 

The rarefied mountain air was expelled as soon as it 
was drawn in, the lungs finding it weak and unsatis- 
factory, yet compelled to effect its use. The heart would, 
now and then, slip a cog or two in sympathy — thus quotih 
the Dane, His seventeen-year-old minx of a daughter 
sped like a goat up the incline, being seemingly unaware 
of the presence of any such organ, she (having, who 
knovv's, perhaps already lost it. She edged as closely aa 
possible to where the leaping waters roared and thun- 
dered. There is peculiar fascination in tempting fate, 
especially for young folks, and to some, not the least 
when standing on the brink of a precipice, or beside a 
roaring waterfall. The seething, hissing water seemed to 
invite participation in its frightful play, the flying forms 



41 
of foam reaching out with beckoning arms, as if eager to 
■caress and clasp the dizzy victim in their hollow em- 
■brace. No wonder the old experienced" Dane held hia 
hand ready to hinder the swaying of the thoughtless 
thing leaning over the abyss, should the call of the swirl- 
ing, maddening element enthrall her senses. 

Once past the steepest places the Dane and his daugh- 
ter mounted their respective steedig again, I following be- 
hind, supporting the rear, in the same fashion as before. 
Though we did not pass over any snow drifts, we met 
Tvlth but very little vegetation, even the moss having 
hied aw^ay, elsewhere, to seek a more favorable nesitling 
place. There were bare, dreary looking rocks below and 
a'bove, around us and everj-where, of various sizes and 
'xJ'escriptions, also, innumerable loose stones of no par- 
ticular pattern, lying in wait along our path, seemingly 
met on purpose to dispute our progress and make worry. 
The pome's, however, through m'uch practice had beccme 
pretty well used to them. It was interesting to watch 
their respective legs, from behind, as they were hoisted 
and flung every which way, to avoid those horrid obstruc- 
tions. Their hind legs, especiallJ^ seemed to have eyes 
of their own. 

While we were in thi midst of this dreary region 
where noise seldom intrudes, all forms of life keeping a 
proper distance, the stillness was suddenly disturbed and 
Tiven sunder, by the slirill, penetrating scream' of an 
■eagle. Soon its mate joined in with a still wilder cry, and 
their various voices iblendinig, in vociferous protest, told us 
very plainly that they not only saw us, but hotly resented 
our intrusion. It appeared that they had their home on 
yon peak to the left. Oh, for a peek, said the girl, at the 
nest and the ugly nestlings, with its halo of Isleached 
fcones and bloody feathers! Upon taking thought she be'- 



42 
lieved she would as lief not see it, in consideration of its 
gory aspect, and being that the owners were hopping 
mad, and had talons. Besddes it would be a matter of 
some effort to reach it, the eagles, true to their instinct, 
having selected their family retreat, even in this out of 
the way place, in the most inaccessible spot to be found. 

Having come about half way, we reached a level 
place wliere grass had dared to take root, even having 
had the temerity 'to turn the place into a pale green. 
Here' we met a couple of old folks, an aged minister and 
his wiife, who sat eating bread and cheese, hungry and 
happy, and chipper as could be. How we all admired 
them! To think of their amiable boldness in pushing 
into these wilds on such tottering limbs, and at their 
time of life! They loved the mountains they said, and 
could not stay away. They told us of another aged en- 
thusiast, aged seventy-nine, who thlis summer m'ade his 
thirtieth annual climb. May he make thirty more! 

After the halt, the ponies walked up briskly, having 
in view the feed boxes at Gjendebo4en, and being also- 
entered upon the downward incline, which led to our 
destination. They had evidently rested well the day 
previous and now made use of the accumulated, stored 
up strength, in rapidly steering their legs away from the 
pair trying to keep up the rythm from beihind, viz, my 
own tired ones, long ago exhausted from not having gone 
to sleep the night ibefore. I thought the Dane would 
have divined my predicament, would have dismounted to 
stretch his long legs a bit, and allowed my trembling ones 
a (brief respite aback his sprightly steed, but, this did 
not seem to occur to him. Our divinity in front forgot 
entirely and swung joyfully along in splendid style, the 
faster the better. But I determined not to get left, hat- 
ing to be mooning around alone, so took a supply of 



43 
strength left over from former times, let the will tak© 
command, and was surprised to find how readily the 
drooping spiirits, legs and all, acted up to its promptings. 
I held to the wake of the merciless thing in front and 
came to the hotel hot and homely, but just as promptly 
as she. I was in no particularly sweet mood to return 
her congratulations, but cheered up a bit when I heard 
her complain of stiffness, and. felt a deep satisfaction in 
knowing, that the morrow would find her limbs in a much 
worse condition than mine, she not beins used to riding. 

By right I ought to have been hungry, but the vio- 
lent exertion had shoved aside my appetite for the time 
being. Dinner tlhreatening to become stale, I ate any- 
how, but with no relish whatever. The stomach having 
been left out of consideration for so long, and in the g*iv- 
inig out of such an excess of strengthening elixir and 
sympathy to the legs, had received a shock, had been 
partly stunned, and refused to report anything either in 
regard to emptiness or satiety. It allowed me to eat or 
quit eating without any intervention on its part, 5n def- 
erence to the Will, which Reason had allowed to take the 
supremacy. 1 got up from the table with feelings anid 
sensations as of a man having gone through a useless 
ceremony, of having continued a purposeless habit, which, 
however, I felt intuitively, that I could, not lightly break 
away from. Leaning back in my chair, I noted a cer- 
tain blurring before the eyes, upon which, I decided to 
take a nap and invite sleep to straighten out the dispro- 
portlonableness. 

I slept in a newly built pine cottage, where the rooms 
were of the tiniest, and tne partitions scarcely more than 
screens, from whence the sighs and snores of the various 
occupants were wafted abroad in all fulsomeness for the 
common enjoyment of all. But as sleep is common 



44 

property in the mountains, few were disturbed. All the 
feeds creaked and' were rather hard but each, without 
grumbling-, took to his couch enthralled by the sweety 
soothing- call of nature, forgetting all about the usual 
springs and feathers and pillows of down. The furnish- 
ings were, otherwise, beauteously simple, .but as "man. 
wants but little here below," no one seemed siurprised in- 
being thus forestalled; The looking glass discovered ir- 
regularity of feature where none had existed before; the 
aquiline nose of yesterday partaking of crookedness by 
merely a glance into this cave of conjurement opening 
out from the wall. The soap was marked "extra," if 
wanted at all. To avoid ceremony, many enjoyed the 
thrill of making their ablutions, soapless, in fimmaculatfe 
drippings of snow, such being cold though not h/ard. 
There was no dearth of cleanliness; and good cheer 
abounded, though many modern conveniences lacked.. 
Transportation is difBcult, hence such simplicity of af- 
fairs. But no one lived the less fully, thought less clear- 
ly, or aspired less nobly, because of the lack of a few 
extra notions, which, at home, have grown to be part and 
parcel of our very selves. In the mountains one comes 
to think that too much invention makes us blase, in- 
clining us to turn away from the poetry of life. 

One family had turned out en ma^sse, having hied 
away from too much civilization clad in bloomers, woolen 
jackets built according to the body, Santa Glaus caps,, 
and iron rimmed boots with ample room for the feet. It 
was difficult to settle upon the man of the house, for he 
wore fluffy knee-breeches and other paraphernalia to- 
match, and when ensconsed in the bosom of his flocks 
might easily have been taken for the wife and mother^ 
for aught proclaimed by the external trappings of each. 
They disdained to be upset by curious looks, returning 



45 
glance for glance, guilelessly Linconsjcious of self. They 
hopped, they danced, they laughed, they clashed, mak- 
ing merry till the very hills sang with sympathetic mur- 
saurs. They made merry over the food, partaking with 
much zest, while it, in turn, sprang blooming on brow 
and cheek, fetched hither by willing carriers of blood 
and breath, each joy-charged with bracing mountain es- 
sence. 

I could have resigned myself indefinitely to these- 
kappy soirroundings, but tne call of the wild was upon 
me, Galdhopiggen beckoned in the distance, and on I 

KlUSt go. 

Though it rained and stormed in the morning, the 
nap of yesterday and a good night's sleep had rejuve- 
Hated the body and brought the spirits up, enabling me 
to laugh in the face of the elements as we fared forth. 
I had not the regulation tourist trappings consisting of 
heavj^ boots, thick clothing, rainproof coat and a bag of 
extra rainment on the back, but merely an every day 
eutflt, i. e. calf skin shoes and rubbers, light under- 
elothing covered by a cheviot suit and ulster, these being, 
in turn set off by a stand up collar, stiff hat, and a faded 
looking umbrella to top off with. Had I known, for a cer- 
tainty, when I d,epos;ited nuy baggage at Fagerlund hotel 
that I was destined to Lead imyself into devious ways among- 
sleeping hills beyond the clouds, with no date set for the 
returning, I would, no doubt, have stocked up for the 
siege like the others did. Again, if we could see oiir- 
selves as others do, it would often make plain things, that 
we are left to ponder over, without always reaching to a 
full understanding thereof. Thus, when my guide and I 
said our good-byes, he togged up to the limit to 'cope with 
the coming fray, I dressed as for a church sociable, then 
was when I saw irrepressible mirth lurking in the corners 



46 
of many eyes, upborne, seemingly, as if by some under- 
current of common sentiment. People are not prone t« 
be over-jolly the first thing- in the morning, and I could 
not account for the pent up m^erriment hovering always 
near when I made my final rounds; but, realization came 
later. 

The mirth provoking umbrella provedi to be a stay of 
solace and much worth, for it held at bay the pelting 
drops of rain casting angrily about, set warring by tfee 
blustering wind flouncing about between the peaks. A 
slight mist circled continually round my neck, but this 
was far to be preferred rather than have to suibmit ts 
the leaking ears, weeping eyes and overflowing mouth, 
sousing the neck band of my umbrellaless guide. Tke 
i^jaucy, pestering drops ate through his rain proof coat, 
bringing coolingly up against his skin, as they sped 
eagerly downwards to snuggle into his shoes. But tee 
minded them not, for !his blood was good, the ample heat 
of his body hurling them back and aloft in the form of a 
pillar of steam, which steadily held: to his wake. He 
walked ahead and I behind, and wherever he put his 
foot, it was replaced by one of mine, and I was thus en- 
abled to drone along carelessly, he blazing the way. 

Peering forth under the rim of my umbrella, I took 
note of the surroundings as best I might, missiles of the 
air and skulking fog banks, notwithstanding. Some in- 
trepid hill-hunting flowers, blooming prodigiously, haal 
met under a protecting ledge, and: from their cozy nest- 
ling place, swayed gaily back and forth, cheering the 
passing plodders on their way. Ryper (Ptarmigan) 
hurtletd by, cleaving the air with a whiz and hum, leariag 
us at an apparent standstill. Startled hares formed end- 
den streaks in the mist, picking their bewildering course 
•with unfaltering, unerring instinct. Sly Reynard- peei»©* 



g 

as 




47 
ferth, half wishing to pursue, yet mindful of the comfort 
ef a dry, well-kept den. The weather not suiting him at 
all, the bear stayed at home, licking his chops, and pre- 
paring an appetite for the feast to come. Leman (Lem- 
ming) that had ventured away from their homes in the 
moss-banks under the snow, lay strewn about, dying and 
dead, thus reaping the fruit of their venturesome quest 
in a forbidden world. The guide spoke of Gjerv (Glut- 
ton), but look as we might, none of these scavengers 
would oblige us with a view. The reindeer stayed out in 
the rain, feeding busily on moss, darting hither and 
thither, fleet as the dawn, cooling off on seemingly inac- 
cessible snow beds by day, and nestling, who knows 
where, at night. The song birds were hushed, for w© had 
left all trees behind', only a twitterimg, ihere and there, 
re:mindied us of a few of their cousins, who had come to 
keep us company. The quacking of ducks pierced the 
g'loom from above, and their eager, lurching bodies sped 
past as if hasteninig away from a charge. 

The path seemed nowhere, yet the guide pressed vm- 
hesitatingly, unfalteringly on, seemingly never at a loss, 
never in uncertainty, where next to proceed. We labored 
up endless inclines, only to find d'uplicates in plenty, 
further 'on. We crossed miles of rough, jagged stones, ap- 
pearing as if carelessly quarried; obstacles belched forth 
from the cavernous depths to provide extra inconvenience 
for the curious. A misstep atwixt their broken backs and 
gaping teeth, meant flurried shins, sprains, andi some- 
times broken bones. The eyes were required to be in 
.constant attendance on the feet. Treacherous loose stones, 
balancing evilly, till perturbed by the tap of a passing 
i»ot, were feared the most, for, suddenly, one would play 
false, the poor feet being obliged, without notice, to grap- 
ple for another footing, and' if unsuccessful', tak« a tumble. 



48 

My rubbers hugged the stones firmly, enabling me to pasa 
the d'ay without sustaining a sing'le fall. They were to be 
preferred in hopping thus from stone to stone, but ar- 
rive'd at the snow beds, my guide with his elephant boots, 
claimed superiority. The rubbers would persist in ank- 
ing in too deep, allowing the thawing snow to plaster the 
ankles, even threatening the calves. At times th-ey would 
forsake the foot, being held fast in the snowy embrace, 
leaving the shoe, naked and bare, to grope dizzingljr 
■around for cover. When travailing along over the snow- 
beds, enjoying too, for aught of their yeastiness, a ques- 
tion came to me, which I at oiice put to my guide, and ia 
this form: "Do you suspect any treacherous placea lying 
in wait for us?" "Non-e at all, in these smaller drifts," 
came the reassuring response, than which no sooner 
having been said, he disappeared. It happened as we 
n eared' the edge of a drift, and as he scrambled out ha 
hastened to explain that these shallow, scallopy edges, 
would sometimes take the opportunity to trim up by let- 
ting down a passing tourist, now and tEen, furnishing him. 
a scare and them a new face. 

We crossed no large glaciers that day, but we wadel 
over innumerable brooMets formed in their bowels, and 
which were rushed along with ad.ded might and swiftness 
on account of the protracted rains. We managed to hop 
acrosB on the various stones so liberally strewn about, 
but the water had a trick of entering shoes and stock- 
ings in spite of all precautions, finding no pei'manent 
cheek till it reached the bare skin. There was a eonse- 
ciuent swish and swirl of furiously ruaaie>d and overworkedl 
water, as it was sctuirted between the to^es and- preaaftcf 
m«reil«5sly to the walls an'd roof of the tt^pe, to give ^pr 
to the unceasing activity of the iinprhroneid' foot. Til* 
feet became cleait fpem the too intimate oontaet> thfe hii« 



49 

of the wearj- water bearing witness to the fact, but the 
much washed members looked fearfully shrunk and 
faded. 

When teetering along over narrow ledges, gazing 
down stupendous heights, I took to pondering the sub- 
limity of various things, of which, it occurred to me, that 
the art of keeping the balance, is bj^ no means the least 
wonderful. What is this happy thing about us that tells 
the muscles to contract and relax, enabling the body to 
remain obedient to the law of equilibrium, while sight, 
thought and reason, may be occupied about a distant 
mountain peak? Never before had I so fully aippreciated 
this hidden sense, as on this day of impossible places, in 
the heart of the Jotunhedm. 

A queer thing occurring, told me, however, that this 
independient quantity, may sometimes be startledi out of 
its course, influenced mainly by the faulty working of 
«ome major sense, such as, for instance, an error of siglit. 
In the thick midday gloom the fog banks seemingly drew 
to a standstill, exchanging their motion wdth mighty 
boulders and the like, which, upon becomimg animate, 
deceived the eye, causing a corresponding quiA^er in the 
balance. 

We saw figures of giants almost if not quite, on t*i« 
jnove, a'nd near the top of one mighty Jokul there ap- 
peared, silhouetted midst rock and enow, the exact like- 
ness of a princely, block steed, rearing imperiatisly on 
Sts 'haunches, as if about to bridge the yawnimg declivity 
in front, in one mighty, surpassing leap. Uncouth rock 
formations gloweredi menaxji-ngly from above, as wee^yly 
slipped beneath, eagerly hurrying our steps as if in apoftagfy 
for our unwilling trespass. We had' come unbidd^en, bai>- 
fseningr on Nature's ■wash day, hence, such a scowlinjf fac« 
and »ulky reception. But like unto the atmosphere in 



50 
tke kitchen, when the cleansing turmoil ceases, it bright- 
ens, 90 did the sun enter cheeringly forth, aa the well 
rinaed clouds, all strung out, willingly lent room, that its 
raya might pilay in their places and brighten our way. 
The rocks now remained quiescent and the fog, panic 
stricken, lifted, and bundled frantically away in vast 
vapory masses, seeking egress in the first available cleft, 
or paas, in the^ mountains. The numerous particles of light 
were profusely strewn about, kissing dry the face of the 
weeping rock, sparkling naichieviously in the teara of the 
ragged heather, andi peeping audaciously into aadi, secret 
caverns, where none other might enter. It bid appear 
before our presence objects quite overlooked in the gloom, 
all happily arrayed, the glimmer arid glitter of which, 
thrown back, penetrated even to the hungry soul sitting 
aiwake in our eyes. It discovered to us a beautiful little 
flower, the staunchesit of them all, clinging to the: onoss at 
the very foot of a glacier. It never wouldi have obtruded 
itself o<n our vision, had we not caught it unawares, lean- 
ing its head over the bosom of the- snow. It had jour- 
neyed hither at the behest of its Maker, to make com- 
pany for its white robed sister dioomedi to utter quietude 
and perpetual banishment from all other faces of bloom, 
with the accompanying twitter of life and joyousness. 

Dropping into a little valley where the aun of 
many yesterdays had cajoled' forth some silent leaver 
and pensive tufts of grass, we were astonished to meet 
with a herd of young cattle, treading briakly about, 
feeding busily on these unassuming growths. We ap- 
proached warily, for fear of stampeding them, exercis- 
ing such caution, also, in consideration of the possibility 
of their charging us. We might have spared ourselves 
these stealthy, cunning moves, for they were not a bit 
jsurprisedi, and plodided on with their fee^ding only the 



51 
more energetically, as we drew into range. Arrived in. 
their midst, it happene-d that we were the ones who 
moved out of the way, not they. They had evideinitly had 
a touch of the newest civilization, observing to the letter 
the axiom: "First coime, first served," in other words — 
Grab! One steer liad evidently sustained a very serious 
fall, for his hide was badly torn up and lacerated. Th» 
succulent grass had tempted him to stretch to-o far and 
lie, not being supplied with goat's legs, had slipped'. But 
he seemed none the worse for his unlucky plunge, mov- 
inig about as nimbly as the others, seeking aggressively for 
W'hat he liked best. He honored us wiith a look, but it 
quickly spedi past us, as if he had suddenly dropped off 
into another train of thought. If we had been a hare or a 
mouse he could' have done no less. They were all small, 
having been so brought up, being but the offshoots of 
those tenldier, esthetical looking, flower eating, sseter 
-cows. They had been left by a cattle speculator in the 
free pasturage here afforded, to prepare themselves suit- 
ably Into shape for the block awaiting them at the end 
O'f the season, in hungry towns below. 

We carried lunches in our pockets, but were so fastid- 
ious in our selection of a halting place, that we walked 
by all the most favored nooks, finally settling wrathfully, 
in the least inviting spot of all. To aggravate the situa- 
tion, the clouds became as one again, and from the 
union issued drops, which soaked our bread, while pass- 
ing from hand to m'out'h. The very air was water-logged, 
threatening to drown us. We sat in damp, dank, misery 
for awhile, till the tasteless morsels had been safely be- 
stowed and settled, when we stretched our clammy 
limbs, laboriously rose, and unenthusiastically set forth 
again. The guide made several ineffectual attempts to 
light his pipe, but failed utterly and' ignominiously. It 



52 
would have served as an approach to cheer, but eA'en this 
little comfort rmust need's be denied us. To sing was an 
imposisibilitj^ the comTnon discordance being too utterlj- 
obvious and disturbing. To talk was unpleasant on ac- 
count of the lips being required to remain shut in such 
weather. Though we did not grumble, ha;d we met the 
Philosopher of Cheerfulness just then it would not have 
gone well with him. We sought sarety in silence and 
ceas'eless motion; pessimism is tabooed in the mountains.. 
We walked on in the manner once previously described,, 
continuing our seesaw motion so steadily, that at last it 
partook of a half hypnotic influence, portending endless- 
ness. And there seemed never to have been anything- 
else. But there v>-as soon to be. My guide announced 
quietly, that we had now entered upon the diownward 
incline which, in an hour or so, would terminate not far 
from the threshold of Spiterstuien. Upon hearing this,. 
new life awoke within me, and question upon question 
was born and propounded, pushing past each other and 
engaging the wits quite furiously of him, who was to 
receive and answer them. He was reauired to name all 
the snow peaks we paseed; the brooks and rivers we- 
saw; the mosses and ferns we espied, and a great deal 
more such which, I have for convenience sake, forgotten^ 
We soon came into a valley where a stream had sub- 
sided into silence and was taking a nap, which, but a 
few minutes before, had' leaped in frenzied madness down, 
the mountain side. Some frothy little bubbles remained 
to show of its busy d'ay spent, miles and miles, along its 
rugged course. But its rest was of short duration. We 
soon came to a place where a swift, smooth, undercur- 
rent, was pulling it down another incline without as much 
as a warning ripple on its surface, only to precipitate it, 
headlong, into a fearful cauldron below, where greenish 



53 

heads of fearsome looking boulders bobbed up and down, 
as the helpless waters crashed down upon them. It 
sought frantic exit in every direction, only to be thrown 
back again by solid walls of rock, finally slipping out, 
sucked forth by the sweeping current leading a way of 
escape out of the grewsome kettle. Andi so it was rushed 
from place to place, causing a mighty uproar for the 
benefit of the wayfarers wending their way 'by its banks, 
and making them dumb and speechless by its incessant, 
deafening plaint. "We crossed an angry torrent just 
escaped from the interior of a mighty drift, its ruffled 
bosom sihowinig white from its fierce grovelling in the 
womb of the clay-isplashed., grinding, crunching, slowly 
shifting glacier. Such light-coloredi, limiy, clayey mat- 
ter, mingled with the water, causes the greenish tint 
seen in mountain lakes or adjacent fjords. 

A few minutes more of stiff walking brought us to 
our haven of rest, the long looked for Spiteratulen sseter 
hut. Vv^'e dared enter without knocking, no one resent- 
ing the intrusiion. We were met ^by the sseter owner 
toimself, who congratulated us on our rapid journey, he 
calculating that we had made the trip two hours quicker 
than was ordinarily done. Hearing this, the guide and I 
looked upon each other with much approval. There was- 
admiration also in the eyes of the dairy maid, 'but not 
for me, the guide being the younger and more fit. They 
both beamed on me, however, when my crowns came in 
evidence, for six of them were due him for his com- 
panionship and ishe, bright thing, knew very well that I 
wouldn't have the heart to lock them all up in my pursie 
again. She stuffed the guide into her tiny kitchen, where 
sat a couple of other men smoking. Me, she led into a 
large room where there was a "pels" and a large table 
together with several doors opening into adjacent bed- 



54 
rooms. I was left at large here to dry out andi compoae 
myself as best I mi^ht. Upon entering, my eyes being 
Tnor« familiar with- the brig'hter light out of dioors, 
could not readily adijust themselves to the gloom, smaller 
objects remaining, for a certain space of time, undefined. 
I had been vaguely aware of a formless heap before the 
"pel®" during tihe first few moments, tout the several im- 
pression® received immeddateily upon my entering, had not 
allowed: the centering of thought or attention upon any 
one thing- in particular. While the mind iwas groping 
about in the throes of dawning realization, it was startled 
into full focus on the aforesaid' heap, which, with many 
'Quirks and contortions, was now rapidly changing out- 
line. Nor did it settle back into its former folds, on the 
contrary, it lifted up one end, which, rose higher and 
higher and finally resolved itseilf, fully straiglitened out 
and adjusted, into a very correct, tall, angular Engliah- 
man. The remainder of the heap also partook of form 
and much motion, becoming when disentangledi, equiva- 
lent to three larking maidens, vikin?^ girls in quest o€ 
mountain joj-, all hailing from tihe capital. Their simul- 
taneous rising was intended as a salute to the new- 
comer and I no doubt took it ais such, having by now for- 
gotten, remembering, on the other liand, very distinctly, 
that the apparition caused one to make a giudden dive 
into the nearest bedroom. I felt unequal to the de- 
mands of the occasion considering my very much be- 
draggled state. Arrived in my solitary nook I quitted the 
faithful umbrella, hat, ulster, shoes and stockings an* 
waslhed my face and hands, this being, however, quit© 
unnecesgiary, which, also, requires no explanation. But 
the towel worked wonders, as did- tihe brush and having 
meanwhile, begged a pair of dry stockings and: slippers 
from the friendly host, I was enabled to emerge tranquil. 



55 
•ombed and restored, before the gK)od. company. They 
toad by now settled on benches before the blaze, chat- 
tering incessantly, throwing pine-knots on the flames to 
enjoy the sparks and to dissipate the rain, which fell in 
a respectable shower through the wide, yawning chimney. 
There was a general scramble for the privilege of sur- 
rendering up to me their respective places, but the plleas- 
«re of acceptance was spoiled, for I could fill only one, I 
became ensconsed in the very midst of the gatheriing, and 
with kindness breathed about from right to 'left, with also 
a fire in front to soothe and dry the several tortured 
limbs and legs, our feelings bore us aloft into realms of 
Ineffable bliss. 

"While I had been occupied in ibrushing up, the 
number of guests was augmented by the arrival of three 
bright facedi students, who had also been adopted as 
jnem'bers in the clieerful circle about the pels. Soon 
there were more arrivals; this time it was a couple of 
ladies, who were promptly ushered into the ring by the 
indefatigable host, they being made instantly welcome, 
all vying with each other in being gracious and kind. 
They were Danish school-ma'ams out for a holiday. They 
were quite filled to the brim with enthusiasm, having 
ihunted their own way in the wilds, and telling of it with 
a perfect salvo of words and gestures and so good- 
naturedly, that they quite overflowed with it. The con- 
versation which had hitherto been carnied on chiefly in 
Norwegian, was now richly spiced with Danis'h. These 
two languages intermingled nicely, the one being but a 
Bupplement to the 'other. But wihen the solitary English- 
Htan took to looking- yearningly from ome to the other, as 
if siglhing for a better understanding, we took pity on 
him, and adopted his tongue as a common vehicle of ex- 
pression. All could converse freely in his language and 



56 
th'us, he remaininig- true to his colors and' traditions. 
was spared the pain of acquiring any other. Almost in the 
wake of the Danes appeared' an elderly maiden with a 
youth in her tra^in, captured on the march, andi noiw 
made to act as her escort, botlh being headed in the same 
direction. There was no question of surrendering up a 
place, for she immediately took one, allowing meanwhile, 
her charge to ishift for himself. She had taught school 
all her life, bringing her school room atmosiphere with 
her, cackling and bustling about, as if all the world' were 
her scholars to be benefited by her learndng, precept and 
example. Given finally a grain of time, the unassertive 
man of Leeds ventured to tell us that he had been 
joined together with his three lady comipanions, while 
attempting to cross the Memuru glacier all alone, that 
day. He had been roped in by them, they having been 
touched by ihis lomliness, ordering their guide to tie the 
knot securely that they might serve him in a union of 
safety while crossing the treacherous places. They had 
let him loose when the danger iwas ever, but grown used 
to their company, he had remained a willing captive ia 
their ranks, till now. 

I had been making silent query, for some little time, 
as to the characterB I had fallen in with andi directly, as 
if in ailswer to it, a turn in the conversation endighitened 
me that I was brushing elbO'WS with the son of a former 
chief justice who wias, besides, a near relative of Olie 
Bull, and yes, even also of Edvard Grieg. A voice issu- 
ing in sonorous accents from under a table in the corner 
of the room betrayed, through various shadings and 
intonations, the origin of its author, the sure-eniough soiM.' 
of his father, a famous manager-actor, member of the 
French academy etc., etc., and not to forget the mother; 
known througihout the kingdom for her famous roles and 



57 
impersonationa. From out his g-loomy retreat this 
bright-witted blossom of stock histrionic, made sudden 
excursions on all fours across the floor to pick up hand- 
kerchiefs, ring's and such like, dropped by the ladies, of- 
fering them up, in homely obeisance and an abjectly 
ap'Ologetical, sprawling attitude. His splendid antics 
drew the heartiest merriment and all the more, perhaps, 
because of his name and student's cap. There were 
■those v.'ho sought to discover the identity of the three 
graces who had the gentleman from England in tow, 
but it was not to be revealed to us. Being that there (had 
already been discovered a few such highborn persons, 
conjecture went into ecMacy, soon pointing to these 
noble dames as being nothing less than persions of roy- 
alty, and that's what they were, of course, princesses all, 
without any doubt. This being understood and settled, 
still enquiry circled about the representative of John 
Bull, opinion soon forming a suspicion that he must be a 
prince in disguise; nothing lower in rank would suffice. 
He was unhumerous enough to let it slip that he was but 
an officer in the bank of England and we, by now, being 
used, to stepping among ultra-aristocratics, looked upon 
him somewhat condescendingly. Though he did not 
carry royal blood in his veins it turned out that he proved 
popular as any; even the Hawkeye hayseed was made to 
feel that, rank or no rank, a "man's a man for a' that." 
We were just a crowd of grown up children, accidentally 
thrown together, and careless of station, wild for whole- 
some play. And play we did. 

Supper came first, and such a jolly repast was seldom 
before indulged in. Actual eating, mastication and tast- 
ing the food', was deliciously prolonged, laughter and re- 
partee giving zest to its action and that of the grateful 
stomach, also concerned. We had tea and eggs, bread 



58 
and cheese, sardines and marmalade and if there was 
more, I do not remember, only, that when rising from 
the table were we aware the condition of the food' had 
been such, thajt from no sensations of the body could we 
tell wihat had stilled our hunger. Through with the joy- 
ous food indulgence the pleasure making was continued 
in various was's, the agreeable, gray bearded sseter owner 
participating, till far into the evening, when weary limb» 
complained and languid spirits palled upon our play. 

We slept upon extremely hard beds with bearskins, 
sheepskins and goatskins to bear d'own upon us for 
warmth and company. Such great husks of former life 
seem different at night from mere spreadsi of 'Cotton or 
other flimsy stuff; they cannot be disassociated from, 
their one-time occupant, nor are they void of a seeming 
comradeship. 

The transition from waking to sleep was frictionless^ 
for all joined in the night-chorus quickly and silently; 
there was no useless sighing or restless turning. The 
body having been thoroughly subdued, it needed no 
further quickening except that of utter immobility, and 
the relaxtioni consequent upon entire forgetfulness. 
Though the majority of us can measure time in our 
sleep, being able, generally, to awaken at any hour we 
highly desire. Nature in this instance, having felt herself 
not a little outraged, took revenge 'by letting us oversleep 
fhe next morning. We had intended to be quite early, 
but no single one had been able to shake off the lethargic 
mountain coma which had assailed us so valiantly the 
night before and be rid of its embrace, till the late hour 
of seven. 

We breakfastedi more quietly than we had supped, 
sundry aches and pains with the usual disinclination for 
animated discourse, hindering attempts at hilarity. Sev- 



59 
•eral spoons were thrown at one who so forgot himself as 
to mar the serene morning calm by trying to be funny. 
But our appetites had not forsaken us, and after our visit 
to the table, little remained to build another course upon. 
We had come like an invading army, feasting to our 
heart's content. Imagine our surprise, and actual dis- 
may, when learning that the modest host had scarce 
taxed us more than cost. He had been most happy to 
serve us, he said. If anyone had acted patronizingly in 
such a house, it could not but be most heartily unwished, 
when the parting came. True, we could, no doubt, have 
prevailed upon the good man to have accepted a more 
than generous tip, but human nature being generally so 
constituted as to be equally loth to part with unexpected 
gains, as with the regular ones, we happened mostly to 
forget it. We could, besides, have smoothed out matters 
very prettily by hiring one of his guides standing in eager 
readiness to show us the way, but, alas, our sense of 
obligation was not quite acute enough to guide the hand 
purse-ward. It would also have been greatly to our ad- 
vantage to have engaged our man, and which, the course 
of the story soon will show. 

The jolly, fearless students took it upon themselves to 
act as guides and all the rest joined in, equally brave, 
looking upon possible perils with bland' indifference. The 
man of Uncle Sam and his British cousin deemed it but a 
privilege to come, taking it for granted that they could 
safely follow where the Norwegians dared lead. We held 
to the wake conversing interestedly, the female con- 
tingent (the princesses) having mingled in promiscously, 
here and there, faithfully supporting their section of the 
indomitable single file regarding with such heroic calm 
the untried, unfathomed future. 

Gathering up our end, England and America strode 



60 
valiantly on in the rear, keeping an eye, meanwhile, on. 
bold Norway navigating in front, represented by the 
man of mirth who had delegated himself to the fore and 
who now with many erratic dodges, twists and turns, 
was seemingly holding himself and us securely to the 
true path. Whether he grew weary of the strain and re- 
sponsibility of leadership I know not, but directly, upon 
his halting in a contemplative way, he was superseded In 
command by one of the other students. For awhile all 
went swimmingly, though, for the life of me, I could not 
discern the least sign of a path where he so confidently 
led the way. On and on he went, and having taken the 
bit in his teeth there was no stop nor stay, and follow we 
must, an undulating human chain being dragged rather 
unwillingly along over a terrifically rugged' course, and 
one we had long since come to question. Again there 
was bewilderment and much wavering and finally, the 
third student pushed into the lead. But this was merely 
an experiment and soon came to an end; there ensued a 
general consultation where it turned- out that all were 
equally wise concerning the situation, the ladies included. 
With the cliffs towering threateningly above us, and with 
yawning deeps below, we felt that we had been fetched 
into a pretty pass indeed. But all took equal blame, no 
one said, "I told you so," or alluded to the guide left be- 
hind. 

Our next move proved to be as ill-advised as the first. 
Each following the bent of his own inexperienced wits, 
we were soon scattered like sheep in the wilds, groping 
vaguely about, among the horrors of stone and chasm, 
feeling for a path, or at least, a sense of direction point- 
ing to our destination. The princesses were as intrepid 
as the rest and quite undismayed, they having risen to 
the occasion. Once when crawling out of a most unin- 



61 
viting hole, scared and thirsty, I came upon one of them 
sitting cool as you please resting on a favored stone near 
a mountain brooklet, dipping her little tin goblet into 
the amber liquid, and refreshing herself as contentedly 
as if she were sitting safe in her own bower at home. 
Seeing furrows of concern puckering my brow, she spoke 
lightly of our predicament and offering me a drink, 
caused a dissipation of my gloom and the ugly linea- 
ments settling about the features. 

Though for the most part completely lost to each 
other, we happened by a seemii^g miracle of airection to 
have proceeded along in a certain unity, for on reaching 
a somewhat level place all were surprised on counting 
noses to discover that none were missing. There was 
more united effort after this, and while individual effort 
lapsed, a common vigilance prevailed, allowing us to 
drop into a visiting mood as it were. We tested quite 
thoroughly the companionship of each, shifting from one 
to the other accordingly as we happened to hurry or lag, 
and sometimes also in our choice of individual stepping 
stones causing separation, or in the taking of diverging 
paths, meanwhile, moving amiaJbly on, patching up brok- 
en sentences as best we might, or never finishing the sub- 
ject at all. Such accidental tete a tetes were very en- 
joyable; especially do I remember of falling into line, 
through an awkward slip, with the mild-mannered cousin 
of Grieg, who entertained me with delightful anecdotes 
gleaned from much personal association with this gentle 
genius. I was so enwrapped that I could ihave continued 
the discourse indefinitely, forgetful of the surroundings, 
but a mis-step sent my companion sprawling, and the 
subject was promptly shelved for the day. He arose with 
a bleeding finger and no little surprise, but the hurt was 
slight, being quickly hidden with a bandage and forgotten 



62 
with a laugh. 

Our wanderings had led us to the edge of a crazilr 
sloping glacier showing of some faded tracks not yet fully 
obliterated, and where we blissfully entrusted our steps 
only to be treated to a sudden, simultaneous sitting down. 
Personally I had not been quite removed from ofC the 
soles of my feet and the worse for me, for I took to sail- 
ing on them down that terrible slope with the awful 
abyss (?) at its foot, in elegant, yet sickemng styte. Witk 
my dignity to preserve andi also a borrowed camera 
clutched in my left hand, I manipulated the life-saving 
umbrella in my right to such effect that it broke from a 
stab I made into a cleft in the ice, but which, luckily, 
arrested my unwilling course, promising safety for a sec- 
ond or two. I felt all of the warmth in the body rushing 
to the head and every hair straining to remiove my hat, 
but there was no encouragement in this, the mind re- 
maining a blank and! tfhe eyes wide open in wit-less ap- 
prehension. While hovering in this terrible balance thus, 
the other lunatics crawling about -almost as helplessly 
above, they, noticing finally my horrible dilemma, cried 
out in heart-rending chorus: "Remove your rubbers!" 
And which advice I very meekly followed. With the aid 
of my partly wrecked umbrelia and rid ol Che i^reacher- 
ous rubbers, clinging yet to the camera, I managed' to 
work rny way back to the others, where I was supplied 
with a stick nobly tendered by one of the party who, ia 
place of the surrendered implement, took my umbrella, 
he being the better shod. 

The Englishman was holding on for dear life to his 
favorite princess, whom he had saved from despair by 
raising to her feet and holding her upright by a firm 
grasp of the hand, meantime steadying himself securely 
by leaning heavily on his iron-tipped staff. On passing 



63 
me, his lady in charge gripped my hand heartily and 
■helpfully, offering to hold on, hut this only upset my 
equilibrium acquired with so much labor, and I was 
obliged, much against my will, to yell out that she was 
marring my balance and to let go immediately, lest I 
fall. 

The crossing proved not so serious as we had feared, 
for all we had to do when we felt ourselves going was to 
drop Into a sitting posture and the added surface thus 
presented by our bodies to the glacier, hindered' our 
sliding. We edged warily inch by inch, over the dreary, 
furrowed zone, but despite our caution, there were many 
ludicrous antics unwillingly performed, anidi many re- 
markable poses displayed. We enjoyed nearly a mile of 
this distracting, torturing pilgrimage, and when finally 
across looked around In spent dismay like fear-stricken 
horses craning back their necks to regard with wide- 
eyed concern a danger barely escaped. 

Once safely across we did not tarry, nor did the out- 
look bring cheer, but scenting a path we followed it 
doggedly and spying a cairn, we knew at last, that we 
had won. With more of these rude signs on the way we 
eould have been spared much difficulty in making our 
advance. Lives have been lost in the wilds for the lack 
©f these easily erected, silent but trustworthy, guides. 

With an eye on the cairn already located, we searched 
till there appeared another, and then another, and so 
continuing, we stuck unerringly to the course to which 
they pointed, finding ourselves finally arrived, rightly and 
eorrectly, under Galdhopiggens very nose. The Juvas 
hut was built on the level lying here, two hours removed 
from the very crown of Norway's highest mountain to 
provide entertainment for tourists, weary stragglers such 
«a yre. 



64 
Th& daughter of the famous mountain g'uid.e, Knut 
Vole, the proprietor, received us at the door and bid us 
welcome, assigning each their respective nocms and sleep- 
ing places. We bunked in close proximity to each other, 
for the room was sorely limited and all the guests must 
needs be housed. The ladies were hidden aloft, and 
whether they had the greater comfort and convenience, 
it behooves us not to know. They were conducted to 
their separate sleeping alcoves by means of a rude stair- 
way raised aloft outside and communicating by a com- 
mon outer door to the nests within. Having fixed, up a 
bit — those hailing from above appeared as transfigured — 
all met below in the vast common room serving as guest 
and living room, dining and smoking room. Being that 
we came too late for dinner and too early for supper, 
both were combined' in a generous conglomerative' meal, 
no one knowing the which from which. 

Peeling safe and somewhat rested, secure in our 
places before a cfestal board, we felt thait we could afford 
to assume indifference and prate of ~Dur foolish achieve- 
ment before the assembled guests. The face of one took 
on seriousness, and no awarding smile beamed forth to 
illuminate the finish of our ill-timed tale. Knut Vole had 
lived too long, and tried too much to look lightly on such 
an escapade. He warned us never again to repeat it, for 
some such another reckless excursion might prove to be 
our last. Others had furnished example. Being not un- 
willing to change the subject, and our appetites remain- 
ing unaffected by our stunts, the wholesome viands were 
quickly pounced upon, offering also, pretext for favor- 
able remark, which last went home, and Knut took us to 
ihis heart again. 

Old Knut took every one to his bosom, and without 
partiality, making one and all feel that they had indeed 



65 

found a haven of refuge in this eerie spot, this furthest 
removed place of abode in the land w^liere the handiwork 
of man had prevailed. 

Though we were in the midst of summer, the sighing 
night wind blew cold without, penetrating even slightly 
through unseen crevices between the stout logs of the 
crudely built ,d\welling. There was a stove, but the fire 
flickered rather low, wood not being any too plentiful 
and only with great difficulty transported into these far 
removed altitudes, as had been also the material for the 
hut. Nothing on wheels might venture hereabouts, all 
the provisions and camp paraphernalia needed being 
borne hither on horse back, or shouldered by guides or 
others. No horses or cows were kept, and save in the 
one lone human habitation, life in any form remained 
foreign, utter silence, broken now and then by warring 
winds or the reverberating boom of cracking glaciers, 
holding ev&rlasting sway. 

Near the hut is situated an ice and snow-plashed lake 
where the summer warmth sometimes induces the water 
to peep out, only to set it in mad motion and awful up- 
heaval, by plunging a billion pound ice-cake into its 
bosom shuffled off a slowly moving glacier. 

While night and darkness were being gloomily wedded 
without, a well burnished lamp shedded a cheery luster 
within our four-cornered cage, inviting us to be merry, 
and stove or no stove, work up warmth. We took to imi- 
tating the voices of birds and the speech of various ani- 
mals. A professor from Holland roared like a lion, 
frig-htening the owls, cats, dogs and monkeys into fearful 
silence. The American eagle quit screaining and fluttered 
silently into a corner, while the Norwegian bear, shamed 
in his whining, drew tremblingly into a sitting posture 
behind the stove. John Bull's frenzied bellowing died 



into a moan as he sought refuge behind his princess, who 
sat like an awe-stricken bird: of paradise guarding it» 
young. The roaring ended in long drawn guttural growls, 
upon which, gay shouts of laughter and loud acclaim 
burst forth, impinging the very walls and rafters, quite 
threatening the roof. The Hollander, no longer a lion,^ 
sat wreathed in smiles. A German doctor nearly com- 
mitted murder on a musical classic loved by us all, per- 
petrating it by means of a starchy violin, which he had 
fished forth from a nook in the wall. Two ladies resusci- 
tated the theme in song, silencing the horridi fiddle, thus 
saving the day. By unanimous consent and' combined ef- 
fort, the BTitisher was dragged forth from his fond re- 
treat to lead in the song known as, "The three blind 
mice." The sixteen travellers present joined in as if their 
lungs were at stakes The conductor bawled forth as with 
a. voice of ten, setting fair example, and wielded his baton 
(poker) in an agony of contortion, with danger to all. 
If the sleeping hills remained yet unmoved, the fault was 
not ours, for to disturb them we had indeed done our 
very best. Songs of all nations were sung in hearty, 
vociferous chorus, and with rancours forgotten, we 
formed a miniature peace congress, holding amiable 
session. 

We retired, to rest in high exaltation, with spirits im- 
bued with love and forbearance, letting differences ga 
hang for a day. My window revealed the shadowy spectre 
of the mighty summit in a death-like shroud, which 
reached out as I dozed away, hovering over me as a night- 
mare through the hours of miserable, troubled sleep. I 
arose unrefreshed to prepare for our great climb, but 
as the sun remained hidden, the fog budging not the 
slightest, we were pleased to postpone our journey till 
another day. We shook off our disappointment, made 



67 
merry again and in the joy of living, I forgot the list- 
lessness and soul weariness inspired by my ugly dream 
phantasy and unsound sleep. We sang and played the 
livelong day, only, I must not forget to make record of 
our great elide, with our own Knut acting as master of 
ceremonies. 

To pass time and provide amusement during such 
awkward waits he had caused several sleds to be trans- 
ported from below, which he now brought forward for 
the use of those pleasurably inclined. We followed' at 
his heels, en-masse, for all wished to share in this exceil- 
lent sport. 'Seeking out one of the smoothest drifts and 
treading upwards along its immaculate bosom for the 
best part of a mile, Knut bid me sit astride his "Boora- 
erang," and under his experienced guidance, I was given 
my first meteor-like glide in the fields of perpetual snow. 
Later I was invited to t)e one of several on a sled steered 
by a less experienced man, with the result that we cap- 
sized, and skirts and coat tails, boots and' shoes, hands 
and feet were indiscriminately mingled. Some bumped 
noses, some rolled over and over, while others slid 
rocket-like, alarmingly far, playing sad havoc with their 
toilettes and outlying limbs. But as long as no one was 
hurt no one cared, and though many a one looked very 
much rumpled up, all decided that it had been glorious 
fun, and forthwith voted Knut their best and sweetest 
thanks. 

The fun-makers' convention took up its deliberations 
Immediately after supper, but despite peace congresses 
and other weighty sittings. It broke up earlier than yes- 
terday, for there was that in the air denoting hunger for 
change. The next night was short and dreamless and all 
were up, figuratively speaking, with the lark, to watch 
for sunbeams and an unclouded sky. Though it might 



68 
have looked more promising the prospect was not dis- 
couraging, and' Knut finally decided that we might at- 
tempt the great climb. 

All were told to make solemn preparations looking to 
the feet. My rubbers were frowned out of question en- 
tireiy, and being that I had no other shoes *ihan the onea 
of calf, they were suffered to remain, and I quickly made 
ready, slinking into the rear of the critical line. I 
yearned for my umbrella but dared not take it for fear of 
being sneered out O'f court by these judges of costume. 
But my ulster I would have, even though kind-hearted 
Knut looked me over with a half scornful, pitying glint 
in his eyes. With the camera in one hand and a rude 
stick in the other, I shuffled along with the rest, carry- 
ing the burden of my own self aa lightly and cheerfully 
as they, though admittedly, not quite up to their stand- 
ard in the matter of clothes. Although each had felt 
called upon to make remark touching the correctness of 
my outfit, I suffered it with easy patience, having detected 
much real kindness lurking up their sleeves. Some were 
actually concerned for my welfare. Others frankly con- 
fessed they thought me courageous for disdaining to turn 
back because of a trifle, in view of the great things at 
stake. 

Arrived at the treacherous drifts about the summit 
Knut looped us in with a rope, each separately, to hinder 
individual gliding or sliding, or possible disappearances 
through bottomless clefts. We were told to walk singly, 
at a certain distance from each other, to prevent too 
much strain on any portion of the line, in case of a drop. 
But he was not minded in this, in the least, the rope 
dropping slack, coming taut only when Knut scowled 
anxiously backwards over the truant row. Each one felt 
Immune from a fall for nothing seemed to be happen- 



69 

ing, human nature as?serting itself careless as ever, ques- 
tioning caution, when all went so well. But when some- 
body's foot found no bottom and the body came tumbling 
after, there was a scramble for places and henceforth 
Knut's advice was better heeded. 

Without warning our guide woke the echoes with an 
ear piercing cry. We hung stock still in our tracks listen- 
ing in awed wonder at the commotion of sound thus 
set raging between the peaks. When Knut shouted "Den- 
mark," with all the power of his lungs it was quickly re- 
peated quite correctly the same, coming back more 
tardily after awhile and in meeker accents, finally re- 
turning almost inaudible, as if having gone into the far 
south for permission to say it again. When all shouted 
together the pandemonium let loose was so great, that I 
feared for the stability of Bjornestjerne Bjornsom's feat- 
ures, especially the nose, which Nature hadi pictured, in a 
frowning rock formation on our left. It was here that 
experiments with the Keely motor should have been 
made, for such mighty echoes as these, could, not but sus- 
tain motion in freak-works with wings or without, and 
for the longest possible time. 

Our path remained not always on comfortaible beds 
of snow, but led us also over stone piles and slippery ice- 
crusts, and finally up a towering ridge with a thin 
shoulder, reminding of a razor-backed' hog. We had to 
cut notches into its very spine to gain foothold, and as 
ice had formed here, danger lurked at every step. The 
wind blew fiercely, threatening to lift us off (our feet, and 
though the ulster hindered it entering its cloth, it did not 
lessen its impact, and I threatened to sail off into space 
with a generous following in train. The ice-hewn steps 
sitood rather far apart, and in striving to attain them we 
had to hitch carefully along, respectful of each other's 



70 
motions, like Siamese twins. I was in a state of muck 
concern lest by some awkward mischance I should fall, 
thus possibly precipitating the whole string to headlong 
destruction. We pushed rocks, unfeelingly. Into chasm* 
below, purporting to gauge the depths, listening, mean- 
while, eagerly to the cruel sounds proclaming them 
shattered to the core. For fear of taking similiar plunges 
ourselves we grew to be extra cautious, nor did we furth- 
er disturb the peace of the silent stones, so little given ta 
inquisitiveness or busy peregrinations. 

Having ascended the furrowed neck of the razor-back 
we soon found ourselves entering upon the upturned 
i'HOUt constituting the top, and forthwith was let loose a 
most unmusical volley of sounds, intended as cheers. We 
quickly shed our Iharness and each made haste to be the 
fxrst to plant foot on the very pinnacle. Right here Knut 
had erected a rude shelter of boards, borne thither on 
his back through a period of strenuous effort lasting for 
weeks. To our horror we became enveloped^ In a cloud, 
and to provide cheer for such a contingency our host had 
brought up a tiny little stove, where flames were soon 
sparkling merrily, and the delicious aroma of boiling cof- 
fee, came temptingly to tickle our fog-dampened noses. 
W'C stuck our cards into the walls and ceiling where 
tliere were thousands before, all new-comers wanting to 
make sure that their names be properly perpetuated, once 
having trod upon this very highest spot in all northern 
Europe. Huddled upon low benches set close to the wall, 
all had appropriated a place, and though we sat exceed- 
ingly close, the discomfort was aninded' by none, weight- 
ier matters by far, claiming our attention. Knut was 
preparing to serve coffee! We waited each for our 
share with burning impatience, the novelty of the situa- 
tion having completely upset our poise. All that mat- 




JotunheiincH — Udsigt fra Beseggen mecl Gjencl and Besvand. 



71 

tered just then, was, that we by no manner of chance al- 
lowed ourselves to be overlooked in the distribution of 
cups. A few minutes before, such indulgence had not 
entered our thought, but once given the hint, existence 
seemed dreary without It. We burned our lips and scald- 
ed our tongues with the fiery black stuff, but having got 
what we wanted, no one cried out. Knut sat In our 
midst, ladling out the precious drops in smoking por- 
tions right and left, thus becoming enveloped in a mantle 
of steam, which set off his figure in happy, cosy outline. 
Seeing him thus picturesquely ensconsed, it occurred to 
one, brighter than the rest, to beg for a tale of the moun- 
tains. This reminded some of what they had long wanted 
to hear, viz: The Story of His Great Adventure. He 
would have fled, but being completely circled aJbout, he 
realized it were but vain to make the attempt. But- 
tressed up b-y a pipe and the cheerful little blaze, he 
beamed benevolently about, and surrounded by such a 
varied array of listeners and in such a place, there was 
formed, altogether, a scene not soon to be forgotten. "I 
was alone with a very green tourist one day in these 
wilds," he said, "when happened what for a time I 
thought surely would end all my trips here and elsewhere, 
forever. We had roped ourselves in, safely enougih, but 
as if fated for trouble I had let caution take wings, for- 
getting to be watchful of the person, I had in my charge. 
To walk with a slack rope for two among these tricky 
crevices so carefully covered, is to court danger with a 
vengeance; with my attention called elsewhere, I had not 
noticed that my companion, contrary to instructions, 
hung hard on my heels, dragging the loop in the snow. 
Of a sudden the snowy crust gave way beneath me and an 
awful black abyss opened and swallowed me up. I had 
nothing to do but fall, which I did, but luckily for me 



72 
and the green-horn above, my feet instinctively casting 
about, struck a ledge about twenty feet down. This ar- 
rested my progress, saving me also from pulling the 
other fellow in after me, who, if he had but kept to hia 
place would have been secure, at the same time providing 
a stay for me. Being still in the possesion of my wits, I 
clung where I had landed, thankful for this much, at 
least. But the ledge was so narrow I could scarce keep 
my balance and imagine my horror when the fiend above 
took to pulling and jerking, threatening to tear me off 
my perch. Had he succeeded in this, we would both 
have been plunged, headlong, into a bottomless pit. Fail- 
ing in his well meamf but foolisGi effort to ddslodge me and 
spilling his own life as well as mine, he desisted, the 
rope growing slack, showing of his departure in quest 
of aid. Being now rid of the greatest danger, I examined 
as carefully as I could into the present condition of my 
predicament. As scarcely any light penetrated from 
above, I was obliged to explore about me with my hands 
to discover, if possible, some means of escape from my 
fearful dilemma. I found there was ice in plenty to sup- 
port my weight could' I but gain foothold, but there were 
no other accommodating ledges, and I goon saw that to 
escape there was no royal #ay ready, but that I must make 
one. At this juncture I remembered' the ice-axe strapped 
to my back and tingled all over with joy at the thought 
of possible deJiveranee. I quickly took to chopping steps 
in the ice, but found it exceedingly slow work and fear- 
fully dangerous, on account of my cramped position and 
frequent slipping. Because of the shower of fine particles 
of ice, I was sometimes on the point of losing the grip on 
my axe-handle, when my heart would almost stop beat- 
ing in fearful apprehension of results, should I drop it. 
After several hours of steady chopping, I had ascended 



73 

into the lig'ht, but when congratulating jmyself at last on 
assured safety and speedy relief, occurred the most aw- 
ful thing of all; a huge cake of solid snow from, aljove, 
becoming loosened, plunged down upon me. It gripped 
me in an embrace, as of death, but by a miracle of 
chance, my head crashed through, but it pinionedi my 
body so close to the icy wall on brushing past, that it 
knocked all the breath out of it, leaving me swaying in 
a dizzy, half -stupor, which seemed surely would have pre- 
cipitated me down to my finish in the horrible hole. But 
my end had not come, the organs of breathing finally re- 
suming action, the entering air whizzing in with a whine, 
the brain also taking up its functions, the vision no 
longer being obscured by millions of stars. How glori- 
ous it was again to be able to breathe, and to s&e, and to 
appreciate my trusty balance that had saved riie from 
toppling over while the mind was at sea. To tell of my 
happiness when at last I clim'bed out, I cannot, words 
are not for such uses; let each one take thought to him- 
self. Thanks to my good health I quickly recoveredi the 
shock, found my way home quite alone, no rescuers show- 
ing- up, and silept my sleep quietly and undisturbedly, that 
night as always before." 

"The summit is clear," some one sang out, and im- 
mediately there belched forth an eager, curious throng, 
and silence reigned supreme in the hut. The old sun of 
Noah, brightly smiling as ever, came back to its haunts 
today as of yore, pushing the clouds playfully apart, lov- 
ingly showering its gold on the crown of the venerable 
mount, which, glistening back, spoke of mutual endear- 
ments, ancient of origin, harking back in advance of the 
flood. We felt ourselves uncomfortably new, quite ex- 
cruciatingly up to date. 

The birth-giving clouds, themselves just born, hurried 



74 
to hide In the midst of their own, only to be caught peep- 
ing, red-handed, in full glare of the dazzling spectre ap- 
pearing with such disturbing effect. The incessant play 
of the vapor, with wonderful magic of its own, viedl with 
the mountains in holding our gaze, at times bewildering 
the senses, fantastically combing its shape into a likeness 
of a nearby scene, and mockingly querying, which was 
which. Though so seemingly solid, if only we could have 
encompassed it about, we would have caught it up bodily, 
crushed it in our hands and flung it away, for it was 
not such, but the mountains, we had come out to see. 
And it finally ducked, away and: disappeared', andl we saw! 

Was the view worth half a crown as an investment? 
It had cost us more than that. Who can figure out the 
value of esthetical raptures hy mathematical rule? Per- 
haps our guide could, laut to me it appeared that life's 
highest awards have no intrinsic valuation and that all 
our material strivings are but a means to an endi. We 
had now arrived', as it were, at a finish. As with music, 
for example, 'and the pure and noble in art, here was a 
glimpse as of heaven, a foretaste of the beyond, and for 
which, all our preparations, the work of our life, is but 
the goal. Was it worth while? The rapt feature® of my 
companions all joyfully tense as if in earnest worship, as 
well as the rapturous promptings of my own soul, 
answered loudly, yes. The view was wide and wonder- 
fully varied, but the scene was of such sublimity that I 
herewith make promise not to try to describe it, and will 
say in the language of Knut Vole, "mere words are not 
for such uses." Let those hungering for soul exaltation 
seek out such spots for themselves; the messages re- 
ceived here are private, untranslatable, and not deliver- 
able through carriers or interpreters. 

As I turned away from the glorious scene, there came 



75 
into my thoughts that beautiful psalm of Brorson, mad« 
famous by Grieg: 

"Behold the mighty white array. 
Like snow clad mountains far away." 
THE END. 



mn 17 1913 



